We were desperate to escape the dreary February weather, but our kids were keen for an adventure beyond the beach holidays they’ve previously experienced. So we booked a cheap flight to Essaouira from Stansted for half-term. I’d been to Morocco twice before, and truthfully I never really understood what all the fuss was about. But this trip changed all that.
Maybe it was the warm welcomes everywhere we went, the (mostly) sunny days we enjoyed, or the vibrant, bohemian atmosphere along the coast. It also helped that it checked all the boxes for the whole family. (Those with kids can tell you – this is no small thing.)
Whatever it was, I finally fell under the spell that’s held so many travellers in its grip for so long. And we had a bloody lovely time.
Stop 1: Salut Maroc
With only one flight in a day, Essaouira airport is so much more relaxed than Marrakesh. We easily grabbed our bags and sailed through to meet our pre-booked taxi (thanks to the very obliging team at Salut Maroc). It’s a quick drive from the airport to the edge of town and a friendly local porter helped us weave our way to the open doors of Salut Maroc for a few dirhams.
The lovely Rachida, their Guest Relations Manager, brought us up to our room on the first floor. We stayed in Safi – a family suite with a private salon and ensuite bathroom with a deep and inviting copper bathtub. The design is inspired by the pottery of Safi, drenched in rich blues, with zellige tiles arranged in colourful designs around the room.
While the kids planned the rest of our day with their dad, I took myself to the hotel’s hammam for a full scrub down. By the end of it, I felt glowy, renewed, and ready for a cocktail.
The rooftop restaurant and bar has stunning views over the sea and a varied menu with a mix of western dishes and Moroccan tagines. My kids enjoyed mocktails while I tucked into a spicy margarita. Sadly, we didn’t catch any of the incredible sunsets I’ve heard Essaouira to be known for, but it was still a lovely place to take it all in, especially on the nights they have live music.
We were also unlucky enough to be there for their first rainy day of the year. But all was not lost. Though it had to be enjoyed indoors, breakfast was a delicious spread of omelettes, Moroccan pancakes, croissants, jams and honey, freshly squeezed juices, and really excellent coffee.
Stop 2: Dar Lazuli
As the rain drummed on, we packed up and moved on to Dar Lazuli, a cosy riad hidden away in Essaouira’s Medina. The long-time managers, Rachid and his wife Latifa greeted us and gave us a quick tour, and I was glad to have at least a little French in my back pocket. (Without a few phrases in French or Arabic, you’d have a difficult time communicating in this rustic hotel.)
But inside, with its tiled floors, colourful rugs and walls lined with books and brightened with tasteful pops of colour, this place has a very cosy, authentic feel. Our mezzanine apartment was clean and simple, with a kitchenette, tadelakt bathroom and bedroom on the ground level and then rather steep ladder-like stairs leading up to the kids bed on the level above. It’s far from a polished luxury stay, but for an affordable and central hideaway, this is an understated, good value gem. Perfect with older children but I wouldn’t recommend it for those under eight.
Outside, the rabbit-warren streets fan out and it’s easy (and fun) to get lost down them for a few hours. I found the shopping here to be less stressful than in Marrakesh – the prices are usually set, so there’s less haggling, and there tend to be fewer crowds.
By the next morning, the rain had cleared, and after a simple but delicious breakfast with pancakes, juice, yogurt and jams, it was time to move on. We wished we had a little more time here to enjoy the outdoor areas as the roof terraces have amazing views and would be perfect on a sunny day, but we were off to the mountains.
Stop 3: Douar Samra
We arranged a private transfer up into the Atlas Mountains and the journey was both fun, bizarre and terrifying in equal measure. Our minivan whizzed along the mostly long straight roads through scrubby scenery for a couple of hours. We stopped mid-way at an unassuming little garage that revealed a hidden oasis behind, with a restaurant, a lush grassy green garden and a petting zoo complete with emus and camels.
As we wove up into the mountains there were a lot of “don’t look down”s. The narrow mountain roads have a surprising amount of traffic and pulling over to allow other cars and trucks to pass had me holding my breath on more than one occasion. However, we finally found the path off the road, up to the village and after a few wrong turns, found the door and stepped into the refuge that is Douar Samra.
This was without doubt my favourite stay of the whole trip. A cluster of simple Berber buildings and treehouses tucked into the mountainside, with a small hammam, and plenty of terraces and cosy seating areas, I could happily sit and drink in the views and the oversaturated blue sky for hours – no, days. It’s just the kind of sweet and unpretentious place we love here at i-escape.
The kids adored our wooden cabin-like treehouse and their cosy berber robes. Just outside the treehouse is Douar Samra’s donkey who makes all manner of hilarious noises. Clip clopping alerts you to the villagers transporting people, bags and building materials down the narrow paths on the backs of sweaty mules. And time was punctuated by the muezzin’s hypnotic call blaring out across the valley to bring people to prayer. We sat on colourful woven cushions and played cards and talked for hours over the candlelit dinner served next to the roaring fire.
The food is simple and the breakfasts plentiful, with pancakes served with local jam and eggs from their chickens. At dinner you don’t really get a lot of choice but even with a vegetarian in the family, we were all well catered for and it pushed the kids to try new things. (No couscous in sight!) We had a delicious chicken tagine one evening with a vegetarian one alongside. Rice and sometimes homemade chips plus plentiful vegetable sides and fresh local bread made up the rest of the meal, much from their own garden. And a steaming pot of mint tea is always on offer after dinner. (Their half board rate is absolutely brilliant value.)
My kids were keen to do a hike, so we left early one morning with a friendly local guide, Rachid. We passed snow capped mountains, orchards of fruit trees, goats, sheep and shepherds, and small mountainside villages. The waterfall at the end was beautiful but heaving with Moroccan tourists craning for a selfie. In the end, the highlight for the kids was visiting Rachid’s home village and picking up some snacks from the friendly shopkeeper.
Stop 4: Baoussala
This funky, family friendly stay is just a 15 minute drive from Essaouira airport, making it the perfect stay for the beginning or (in our case) end of a trip. The rooms are spacious with a slightly retro vibe, and there are loads of intimate courtyards and places to sit and relax.
There isn’t much within walking distance from Baoussala, so I’d recommend hiring a car if you want to explore. Since it was the end of our trip, we kicked back. And the kids spent most of their time watching the tortoises and jumping in and out of the lovely heated pool. It’s a popular spot with families during the school holidays, so they quickly made friends with some of the other kids.
The staff aren’t very hands on, but it’s a relaxed atmosphere in a peaceful setting and if you need anything, all you have to do is ask. Breakfasts, served either in the dining area or outside in the courtyard, and are very generous. Pancakes and fresh juices, chocolate chaud and lots of steaming hot coffee kicked off each leisurely day.
The dishes served here were more French than Moroccan with an emphasis on fresh local fish. We particularly enjoyed a casual poolside lunch with berber omelets and kebabs, but unsurprisingly, the kids favoured the crepes.
The short distance to the airport relieved any end-of-holiday stress, though we were sad to leave – and so glad we took another chance on Morocco. It was the ideal destination for an adventurous – yet surprisingly hassle-free – family getaway that brought us all closer together.
