Exploring Bali with the teenagers

We are often asked for suggestions for holidays that are good for teenagers, who can be a tricky age group to cater for. Our Head of Bookings, Kate, headed to Bali and the Gili Islands with her teenage boys for their first-ever long-haul family trip, and they were all blown away. This is the story of their brilliant adventure.

Before our family gets embroiled with big exams, we decided this was the year for our first-ever long-haul family trip, one which minimised screen time and pushed the kids out of their comfort zones for a more adventurous travel experience. Although being tied to school holidays is a bind, Bali in Indonesia is a perfect fit for European summers: warm and dry weather, the Balinese people are so charming and welcoming, and the sights, sounds and smells will blow your kids’ minds. It is also incredibly good value for money.

For our family of two very different teenage boys, keeping busy was key. The plan: London to Bali via Singapore for a quick stopover, which provided glitz and glam and a futuristic city hit. In Bali, we moved around different parts of the island to keep things interesting. Both my boys were really keen to see as much wildlife as possible, which meant the rainforest was a must, as was snorkelling, and I wanted to get away from the crowds and notorious traffic in the south. I’m pleased to report that there was not one “I’m bored” on this trip! Result!

Stop 1: Ubud

Bambu Indah

Our first stop was the incomparable Bambu Indah, founded in 2005 by jewellery designers John and Cynthia Hardy, now one of the most beautiful and inspiring eco-hotels in Asia. Outside cultural hub Ubud, in a river valley, half the hotel is set at the top of the valley, with the remaining parts down by the river. From traditional Javanese houses to buildings made from sustainable bamboo, the accommodations are varied and fantastical but always comfortable and elegant.

You access the property via a steep set of stairs, or opt for the very fun, James Bond-worthy bamboo lift. We all loved this hotel and wished we had stayed longer, as there’s so much to enjoy. They offer a variety of complimentary activities from morning yoga sessions to Balinese dance and offering making. We really enjoyed the “trash walk”, which went out into the village to understand the hotel’s connection with the community and how they aim to develop environmental awareness. It felt good to start the day by making a difference, collecting plastic rubbish we found around the village and paddy fields.

The river-fed natural pools are a total joy, and we loved spending the rest of the day swimming and watching the wildlife down at the river. Butterflies as big as birds fluttered by; little skinks and frogs abound. The noises of the jungle never stop. Reserve a bale for the day, and have lunch delivered to you. Food is a very important element, mostly grown on site with a strong wellbeing focus. Everything we ate was fresh and delicious; the nasi campur was a standout for me.

We stayed in the fabulous Jambu House, and my kids thought they had died and gone to heaven when they realised that not only did they have their own room but they also had a giant, mosquito-netted four-poster double bed each! They also had their own bathroom with a very unique hanging copper bathtub. We found Bambu Indah to be ideal for a family with teens: they had space and independence, and we were close enough to keep an eye on them.

Stop 2: Gili Islands

Slow Gili Air

My husband and I had visited tiny Gili Air without kids many moons prior, when we flew to Lombok and got the boat across (see Race Across the World series 4 finale), but this time we decided to get the ferry from Padang Bai in Bali. It’s a speedy 2-hour crossing, and I’d recommend mornings for a calmer journey. On arrival, we grabbed a cimodo (a horse and cart), as the island is car-free, which brought us down dusty lanes to the glorious Slow Gili Air.

This hideaway just oozes calming, restful vibes and the need to do as little as possible. There are elegant villas for 2 or 4, all with big green gardens and private pools. The friendly local staff were extremely helpful and arranged push bikes so we could get around, and we headed to the beach for some snorkelling. We threw ourselves into the most incredible azure blue seas for a real underwater show. There are lots of snorkelling and dive options to book, plus boats to the other islands. If you are lucky, you might even see sea turtles.

As any parent can attest, travelling with kids is both a delight and a headache in equal measure, so it’s important to invest in some “me time” – I booked into the Slow Spa for a relaxing head and shoulder massage and 45 mins to myself. Meanwhile, my kids loved having their own pool (who wouldn’t), but they were equally delighted to head out for epic sunset views on the beach and play foosball at one of the beachside bars.

Cafes and restaurants abound on Gili Air. Western fare melds with Indonesian – you can have anything from fish burgers and Aussie brunches to acai bowls, along with standard nasi goreng and ice-cold Bintang beers. It’s all very safe, with a fun traveller feel; teens can roam around on bikes without much to worry about – there are some little boutiques to browse, even a padel court. Do remember that whilst Bali is Hindu, the Gili Islands and Lombok are Muslim, and so note the change in dress codes (cover up when not on the beach out of respect), and you’ll hear the central mosque Imam call to prayer throughout the day.

Stop 3: Lovina Bay, North Bali

The Damai

We rode the ferry back to Bali and transferred to Lovina on the north coast. Arriving at beautiful boutique hotel The Damai in the dark, we were pleasantly surprised to find they had thoughtfully kept a table by the pool for a late dinner. We were a little embarrassed about our bedraggled state after a choppy ferry crossing, but the delightful staff greeted us with as much grace as if we had fully dressed for dinner! For our welcome drinks, legendary barman Dewi created particularly memorable mocktails for the kids and a dreamy coconut margarita for me. We dined like VIPs on the most delicious Indo-European fusion food as the flames danced in the fire pit.

We were then whisked away via golf buggy to our breathtaking Master Pool Villa. It wasn’t until the following morning that we could fully appreciate the size and space we had: two enormous double bedrooms with oodles of cupboards and a vast bathroom only eclipsed by the outside space, complete with private bale and a stunning infinity pool with views to the sea.

It was a short walk through beautifully attended gardens bursting with tropical foliage up to breakfast. The main pool area is overlooked by the restaurant, whose views are breathtaking. Gaze out towards the sea as you are served plates of colourful fresh seasonal fruit, eggs any way you desire, and a vast basket crammed with delicious freshly baked breads and pastries, complete with homemade jams and spreads. We felt like we had landed in paradise.

The atmosphere at The Damai is a little more sophisticated, yet superbly relaxing, ideal for escaping the crowds. The well-trained staff, many of whom have been there since it opened in 1997, are warm and very efficient. They can arrange interesting tours from local waterfalls to craft-making, or dolphin spotting at sunrise on a local fishing boat (a popular trip in Lovina). My youngest son and I woke at 5am to do just this, and we marvelled at seeing in the dawn of a new day from the ocean whilst having an adrenaline rush when dolphins played around the boats.

Later, I headed to the spa (all in the name of research, you understand) and can attest that the Balinese massage here was the best I had! The koi carp-flanked small spa is expertly set up for maximum relaxation, and there’s a little boutique for gifts to take home; there are also complimentary morning yoga sessions at the yoga bale. Bliss.

Stop 4: Tabanan, central Bali

Sarinbuana Eco Lodge

For our final destination, we headed up into the hills of central Bali to revisit the wonderful Sarinbuana Eco Lodge on the unspoilt slopes of Mount Batukaru. We first visited this hotel in 2009 and had always wanted to return with our kids, who heard us reminiscing about this charming little lodge in the middle of the Balinese rainforest and loved the sound of it.

We were delighted to find that during the interim years, owners Linda and Norm and their team of local staff have developed and improved the lodge while maintaining the warmth and eco focus at its heart. The lodge welcomes a mix of families and couples, but for peace of mind, it is easiest with older kids who are not scared of bugs – you’re in the rainforest after all! We stayed in the Jungle House and the Tree House, both of which have fabulous terraces with views across the rainforest canopy. Heaven for wildlife, especially birds.

The property is spread out across the hillside with lots of paths to explore and things to see (waterfalls!) and do. Our favourite new additions to the lodge were the sauna and the natural swimming pool. We also enjoyed activities such as the rainforest hike and the “after dark” wildlife walk, which we did on our last night. We were sad not to spot the pangolin who lives by the river, but we did spy an elusive civet cat in the trees, and loads of tree frogs, caterpillars, giant African snails and the biggest grasshopper I have ever seen.

Another highlight for us was the cosy restaurant with canopy views, with its surprisingly diverse menu. The food from the tiny kitchen was possibly the best we had in Indonesia – I’m still dreaming about the slow-cooked banana-leaf-wrapped chicken rendang. The team are all smiles, turning out lots of delicious fresh organic dishes from their own gardens. My vegetarian son was really well catered for, and we adored the daily breakfast: the kids’ dish of choice was caramelised banana crepes with the local palm sugar.

I have not one regret about our memorable bucket-list trip. The reward of hearing both boys saying after our return that they “wished they were back in Bali” was all I needed to hear. Now to plan the next big adventure…