Crete really has it all: history, food, mountains, beaches, and over 300 days of sunshine per year. Leah decided to take the road less travelled, heading from north coast to south via beach hideaways and time-lost villages, and travelling in autumn when most tourists have departed.
After a hectic year, my partner Jason and I were craving some sun and scenery for our October getaway. Crete was the perfect choice for a shoulder season sojourn. It’s still balmy late into the year, the sea is bathlike after warming up all summer, and the crowds have melted away.
I hadn’t visited Crete for many years, and having previously done the usual spots in the north, this time I wanted to see a different side of the island, venturing into the mountainous heart and down to the quieter south coast, staying at a few i-escape gems along the way.
Stop 1: An old-town gem in Chania
We began our trip in Chania, Crete’s waterfront capital steeped in history and character. Monastery Estate Venetian Harbor embodied this entirely – an elegant building dating back to the 16th Century when it was the private mansion of a Venetian nobleman; now it’s a chic hotel that marries historical authenticity with modern minimalism after a painstaking restoration.
The love and attention put into preserving the building’s heritage was clear to see. As we entered the grand foyer, a glass floor revealed the old city walls and features of ancient Chania. We were then shown to our room, a Signature Suite, where the original features continued. The room had a strong monastic vibe, with stone arches and curved walls, while the hot tub out on the private patio was a touch of modern luxury.
That evening, we ate at the hotel’s restaurant, Mon Es. People drive for miles just to come to this restaurant, so we went in with high hopes. We both started with croquettes, followed by shrimp linguine sprinkled with caviar and creamy tomato and feta skioufikta (Cretan pasta). Everything was beautifully presented and mouthwateringly tasty – it more than lived up to our expectations. Full up on fine food and wine, we retreated to our suite, feeling smug that we didn’t have as far to travel as our fellow diners.
Beside the restaurant, there’s a bijou spa with a pool and sauna. You can reserve the space for an hour per day (free of charge), so you get to swim in total privacy. The pool is kept at room temperature, so it’s nice and refreshing if you’re going in and out of the sauna.
When we wanted to explore Chania, the wonderful Maria and Georgia at reception were full of helpful tips on what to see and do in the city. We meandered through the maze-like Old Town, stopping to browse shops stocked with leather bags and olive wood souvenirs. We also took a boat to Thodoroy Island to snorkel in its clear waters, walked along the seawall to Chania’s lighthouse, and lost track of time watching the boats bob in the pretty harbour at one of the cafes lining the front.
Stop 2: A family-friendly beach stay
After a few days soaking up the hustle and bustle of Chania, we moved on to Ammos Hotel. This family-friendly beachfront hideaway sits just outside the city, and the truly attentive staff make it dangerously easy to order a cocktail or food straight to your sunbed.
The 33 rooms are minimalist but striking. Everything is crisp white, from the linen to the walls, with the occasional playful pop of colour, and a small kitchenette decorated with retro 80s video game motifs.
When the sun went down, we dined by candlelight on classic Greek pies, shrimp on flatbread, and melt-in-the-mouth lamb. The hotel’s owner, Nikos, also runs a bakery in Chania called Red Jane, and you’ll find his baked goods on offer at breakfast. The exotic breads are inspired by his time in Kenya, and there are tempting cakes, cookies, and vegan options too.
There’s not a lot going on outside the hotel – just a few souvenir shops and restaurants – but we found little reason to leave. There’s a large pool and a sandy beach just below it, both of which are lined with more than enough loungers. From buckets and spades for children to an adults-only rooftop bar ideal for sunset cocktails, everyone will be going home happy. Oh, and there’s Johnny the dog, who spends his day cheerily greeting guests.
Stop 3: Authentic rural Crete
From here we headed into the mountains, and when we pulled up at Kapsaliana Village Hotel I was blown away. Owner Myron first came here in the ’70s and, little by little, renovated the ruins of an old hillside village, transforming the buildings using traditional methods. 20 years later, this is the result, and it was worth the wait.
At its height, 55 people called this place home, but now just one house in the village is still occupied by an original resident. The hotel has been built around the old mill, which is now a museum offering olive oil tasting sessions.
Three large vegetable patches stretch across the village, supplying most of the produce used in the delicious Cretan food served up at the Elaia restaurant. We ate here with Myron one evening and, in his words, he feels he has “restored an old village, not a hotel…for people to feel like they are coming home.”. We couldn’t agree more with this sentiment – everything here feels so thoughtfully considered.
After dinner, we retired to the Sirius room, a Historical Junior Suite just a short stroll from the fabulous swimming pool. The pool bar and cocktail bar are great spots for a sundowner while taking in the distant sea views, or you could head to the outdoor cinema to enjoy a movie night under the starlit Cretan sky.
This place felt seriously special and under the radar, and definitely worth veering slightly off the beaten path for.
Stop 4: Walking and wild landscapes
Continuing our mountainous journey further south, we moved on to Eleonas. This cluster of stone cottages gets nothing but glowing reviews, so I was excited to see it for myself. Manolis is a very welcoming host – always present, giving each guest just the right amount of attention.
On arrival, he gives you a suggested one-week itinerary and, if that’s not quite aligned with what you had in mind, he is full of great local insight. The settlement sits at the foot of Crete’s highest mountain, Psiloritis, (our calf muscles were really put to the test!) and, unsurprisingly, hiking is a popular activity amongst guests. When the hotel closes for winter, Manolis goes out into the local area to create and maintain hiking trails and update signage; he even produces his own trail map for guests to take with them.
Each property is very private. Some have pools, others have a mezzanine, but they all share the same breathtaking views of mountains and farmland brimming with olives. Waking up to the sound of goat bells in the morning was an idyllic way to start the day.
The restaurant serves up delicious Cretan dishes buffet-style, although a small à la carte menu is available too. We tested both and everything we tried was fresh and tasty. They also hold regular themed evenings; one night we were treated to a seafood feast, where highlights included crab salad and a traditional prawn pasta.
Kapsaliana and Eleonas share many similarities, from personalised service to spectacular settings, but Eleonas felt more family-oriented and a little more budget-friendly, especially as you can book half-board or B&B. But even as a couple, we adored it and hope to return one day.
Stop 5: An adults-only south-coast hideaway
For our final stop, we made tracks to the less crowded south coast, and to Galini Breeze, owned by Dutch couple Julia and Erik. They had been searching for ten years for something like this but initially didn’t want to be on an island – until they decided to go and view it, and it was love at first sight. Three months later, they were the proud owners of four studios with one of the most breathtaking views in southern Crete: rugged mountains to the left and the glittering Mediterranean to the right.
The studios are simple, with all-white interiors and fairly basic amenities. The real showstopper was the panoramic sea view from our private veranda and roof terrace. We loved the peace and quiet of sipping our coffees out there in the mornings, before nipping down for a few lengths in the heated pool (my favourite of the trip).
There are two e-bikes available for guests to use, and a stand-up paddleboard which they will take down the steep hill and set up for you, for a small fee. They also host a sundowner for all guests twice a week with drinks of your choice and some nibbles.
Agia Galini itself is an old fishing town with an older demographic, so it felt fitting that Galini Breeze is an adults-only kind of place. Perhaps inevitably, the area is slowly turning into a tourist resort with some souvenir shops and large all-inclusive hotels popping up here and there. In general, though, the south of the island still feels quieter and less affected by tourism than the north, and we think now is the perfect time to revel in the peace and quiet before it’s discovered.
Date published: 21 Jul 2026