Travel expert, Ben, shares his tips and tales from a weekend spent in Istanbul, from its trendiest neighbourhood and must-see spectacles to hacks for making your lira go further.
Earlier this year, my partner and I returned to the utterly intriguing Istanbul for a jam-packed weekend. Never has the cliché “east meets west” rang more true than when describing this fascinating place. An absolute powerhouse of culture, it’s such a thrill walking around this city and stumbling over so many layers of history.
We revisited old favourites, unearthed new gems, and stayed in a couple of cool hotels that were perfectly placed for a weekend roaming Istanbul’s magical streets.
Day 1: Sultanahmet
Hotel Ibrahim Pasha
It blew my mind when I realised I last visited Hotel Ibrahim Pasha 13 years ago – but much like me, it’s got better with age! They’ve touched up the décor a little, added a bit of pizzazz, but it’s all blissfully the same. Timeless style never ages.
This hotel nails what most travellers want from a city break: all the top sights are on your doorstep (Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia & Topkapi Palace); set in a tastefully restored historic building packed full of charm and character, on a discreet side street with no passing traffic; it’s also great value, with a magical roof terrace with iconic views of the Blue Mosque and the sea of Marmara with its never-ending flow of boats. Tick, tick, tick.
But it’s so much more than just a box ticker. It’s got style combined with bags of Ottoman character, the staff are all unfailingly kind, and it attracts a wonderful mix of guests – young discreet hipsters were rubbing shoulders with rambunctious older Americans, gathered for cocktails on the terrace, and it all worked amazingly well. This place really has soul.
It’s unsurprising, then, that the hotel fills up fast. The rooms are all unique in layout but share a similar cosy ambience. Most feel a tad dark during the day, but we didn’t mind because this is a city with a lifetime’s worth of exploring, so you don’t exactly come here to relax. That said, if you can bag a room at the front with a balcony, a slow morning would be quite the treat.
The central location is brilliant for first-timers who want to see the major sights, but come the evening, you start to realise the local restaurants are the typical overpriced tourist traps that every city centre falls foul to. My advice is to enjoy an aperitif on the roof terrace, watch the sun set over the city, then hop in a taxi or tram to a neighbourhood with more character and a local crowd. More on that to come…
The Sultanahmet area is basically the heart of old Istanbul, characterised by domes, cobblestones, and the call to prayer echoing through the air. The Grand Bazaar is worth a wander, mostly for the sheer scale and its incredible architecture. But truth be told, it’s a bit too polished these days – lots of gold shops and tourist tat.
The little streets around the Bazaar are far more fascinating: slightly crumbling, full of old workshops, spice stores, and the kind of atmospheric decay that makes you want to take photos every five steps.
Day 2: Cihangir
Witt Istanbul Suites
In the funky area of Cihangir – our favourite in the city – we made our way to Witt Istanbul Suites, teetering atop a steep street. We entered into a foyer with some smart sofas set around coffee tables laden with de rigour oversized design books, and a small bar. That’s about it in the way of communal areas, but that’s ok – the suites are the star of the show.
They are seriously spacious crash pads, almost apartment-like in size, with only three on each level. The views and nightly cost increase the higher up you go – and it really is the views that set this place apart: you have incredible panoramas of the city and the Bosphorus, all the way over to historic Sultanahmet with its mosques and minarets. It’s mesmerising at all times of day.
We had a King Room on a lower floor, which was huge but, alas, had no views. The layout was open-plan with a simple bar/kitchenette and a sitting area. It was big, shiny and kitted out with designer chairs and lamps – a fine mix of retro and Middle Eastern bling. It’s been here for 17 years, and the décor has not changed one bit; they keep it all in tip-top condition, but that’s an eternity in design years, and some aspects now feel a little dated. The most exciting (and unusual) feature was the designer shower, which consists of 16 – yes, 16 – shower heads in a silver alien-like blob hovering above your head. It felt incredible, like the whole Bosphorus was flowing over me.
The next morning, we ventured down for breakfast. It was a mouthwatering spread laid out in an unexpectedly elegant setting – think tablecloths, fine décor and star service. It felt high-end. I love a Turkish breakfast, and this one really impressed. I feasted on memet (scrambled egg mixed with tomatoes), a selection of salty cheeses, olives, tomatoes and some incredible spicy pepper ezme (salsa).
For the few rooms with no balcony or view, there is a small rooftop terrace with a small herb garden and seating offering beautiful vistas. As most rooms do have private balconies, though, we found it deserted up there and sadly not quite the hub it could be. But boy, those views…
The Cihangir neighbourhood is a warren of cobbled streets falling down the hillside with glimpses of the Bosphorus, full of raucous bars, boutiques, antique stores and seriously good restaurants. It has a buzzy, young energy about it, making it popular with creative locals. It’s a bit of a schlep to see the classic sights over in Sultanahmet, but the trams take the strain and it’s totally worth it for the atmosphere.
We had dinner at Demeti, a local eatery with a retro, homely feel – checkered tablecloths, old photos on the walls, and a small terrace with views over the Bosphorus. We tucked into amazing meze, immersed in a lively crowd and that perfectly unpretentious local vibe.
What to do in Istanbul
In a city as culture-rich as Istanbul, two days is not enough time to squeeze everything in. But it’s long enough to get hooked on the chaos, beauty, and history that keeps people (like myself) coming back for more.
You can’t come to Istanbul and not visit at least one mosque. The Blue Mosque is iconic and deservedly so. Go around dusk if you can – when the sun sets, the stone actually glows blue (in daylight it’s more grey in appearance).
My favourite is the Süleymaniye Mosque. It’s set on a hill overlooking the Golden Horn, huge yet peaceful, with far fewer crowds. The gardens and old tombs are stunning, featuring gravestones surrounded by hydrangeas. We lost hours sitting there, just soaking it in.
We decided to skip the Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace this time. Both are incredible, of course, but we’ve seen them before. If you’re a first-timer, though, they’re absolute must-sees. Entrance fees can quickly add up, so if you plan on visiting all the main monuments and museums, get the multi-day Museum Pass Istanbul – it’ll save you a small fortune.
We loved the Çemberlitaş Hammam on a past trip, but it now costs around £60 each (pretty steep for a steam). There are, of course, countless other options in the city for an authentic Turkish hammam experience, and it’s well worth keeping an afternoon free for it. Istanbul, I realised on this trip, is no longer the ‘cheap and cheerful’ destination it once was. Still, even on a budget, it’s easy to have an incredible time here.
One of life’s true (and affordable) pleasures is crossing the Bosphorus on a public ferry. For around a pound, you get 20 minutes of pure bliss: fresh air, sea breeze, and clear views of mosques and minarets glowing in the light. It’s the perfect way to cool down and unwind after a hot day in the city. We loved it so much, we went back to do it at sunset, simply riding over to the Asian side and straight back. Some ferries even have buskers playing; it’s wonderfully atmospheric.
The Asian side (especially Kadıköy) has a totally different vibe – more local, a little gritty, buzzing with markets, cafés, and bars. The food is brilliant and cheaper than in the tourist-heavy areas. If staying somewhere more central, grab a mackerel sandwich down by the water at the base of the Gelata bridge. They’re quite the staple around here, and you can watch hundreds of men fishing off the bridge as you enjoy the fruits of their labour.
None of this is secret or off-the-beaten-path stuff, but it doesn’t need to be. Istanbul is one of those cities that rewards you just for showing up and walking around. Whether you’re crossing the Bosphorus, getting lost in backstreets, or sipping tea in the shadow of a mosque, it’s impossible not to be swept up in it all.
Just… skip the local pickled turnip juice. I tried it for you. Don’t do it.
Date published: 14 Nov 2025
Last updated: 20 Nov 2025