This spring, I spent two glorious weeks on the waters of the Yucatan Peninsula – a journey that combined clear lagoons, hidden eco-retreats, bohemian beach enclaves and barefoot island vibes. We paired a few contrasting stays: some slow and secluded, others more polished, and gave ourselves time to soak in those sunrises, sunsets and sparkling blue waters.
We chose Mexico for its variety, affordability, and the promise of sunshine in early spring. It turns out, flying into Cancun from the UK can be super easy and inexpensive. We looped to Bacalar, dipped into Belize, returned east through Tulum, and finished on Isla Holbox. This trip was the perfect mix of nature, wellness, design and adventure. And despite covering a lot of ground, it felt laid back and well-balanced, helped by the ease of getting around.
The Yucatan Peninsula delivered far more than just beautiful beaches; each stop had its own rhythm and character. It’s a part of the world that still feels easy to explore independently, with rich experiences waiting beyond the guidebook staples.
JUMP TO: BACALAR | TULUM | ISLA HOLBOX
Stop 1: Our Habitas Bacalar
After landing in Cancun, we took the new Mayan Train (4.5 hrs) to Bacalar, which was a smooth, scenic journey. Known as the Laguna de los Siete Colores (Lagoon of Seven Colours), Bacalar is a freshwater lake famed for its luminous hues and tranquil, Caribbean-like waters. It’s quieter than Mexico’s beach resorts, with a low-key, eco-conscious energy. Our first stop here was Habitas Bacalar, a luxe wellness escape perched on one of the lagoon’s narrowest points where the water is startlingly clear and calm.
With stylish yet rustic rooms and curated wellness experiences and activities that change daily, it’s a dreamy spot for a relaxing, wellness-focused break. That said, it’s more of a luxury wellness retreat than a genuine eco-hideaway. I’d recommend it to those looking to hunker down for two to three days and soak in the scenic beauty and indulgent downtime.
The setting alone is spectacular. We loved doing sunrise yoga before breakfasting beside the turquoise water, then getting involved in the daily activities like painting classes and paddleboarding. The hotel caters to couples or small groups looking for a trendy but chilled-out stay, with paddleboarding at sunrise (for a fee), wine-and-paint afternoons, and some of the best yoga classes I’ve ever done.
Stop 2: Azul Nomeolvides
Just 15 minutes down the road, Azul Nomeolvides lies further along the lagoon and offers a stark contrast in feel. If Habitas is about curated luxury, Azul is about soul and purpose. This was a true highlight. Designed and run by the inspirational Sam and Bernie, this off-grid eco-retreat lives and breathes its principles — zero waste, local staff, solar power, composting, and natural products made in Merida (including reef-safe sun cream and mosquito repellent). The thoughtfully designed cabins, created by Sam, were elegant and private, each with private terraces and dreamy open-air bathrooms. There’s no WiFi in the rooms (bliss!), but you’ll be too busy spotting toucans from your terrace to miss it. This is a place to truly disconnect. That said, there’s a convivial atmosphere (and internet access to reach the outside world) in the communal lounge where breakfast is served and board games await.
This is a perfect sanctuary for eco-conscious travellers and nature lovers who want to unwind, reconnect and go tech-light. It’s perhaps one of the most genuinely sustainable places I’ve ever stayed. Water is treated, waste is composted, products are non-toxic, and the team (almost entirely local women) care deeply about the environment and guests alike. If you’re looking for nightlife or easy access to town, this isn’t for you. But it’s deeply peaceful, secluded, has a beautiful, slow rhythm, and we adored it.
Stop 3: Olas Tulum
Next, we hopped aboard an ADO bus from Bacalar to Tulum (about 3 hours). Tulum has become something of a paradox – once a sleepy backpacker town, it’s now a bustling hotspot filled with designer boutiques, spiritual influencers and smoothie bars. Tulum is divided into two main parts: the beach zone (where Olas is) and the town itself. Like me, you may find the hotel zone a bit much, think: LA meets Instagram’s explore page, complete with traffic jams and matcha stands. But beyond the hype, there are still magical pockets to be found.
Olas is a calm retreat at the very southern tip of Tulum’s hotel zone, past the boutiques and beach clubs, tucked away behind 11 private villas, which means it’s beautifully peaceful. Built in the 1970s by an Austrian environmentalist, the hotel has real character, with open-air hallways, breezy layouts and rooms angled for maximum sea views. Jimmy, the characterful New Yorker and proud owner, is hands-on, full of stories and always around for a chat. All this combined creates an atmosphere that’s simple, warm and refreshingly low-key. Breakfast is wonderfully communal, and a range of activities can be arranged – kayaking in the nearby Sian Ka’an Reserve is a highlight. The beach here is one of the best: quiet, wide, white-sanded and postcard-perfect. We loved the yoga deck, and their ceviche was my favourite of our whole trip.
This is a great place for couples or solo travellers looking for tranquillity within reach of Tulum’s buzz. Most rooms have kitchenettes, so you’ll want to do a food shop before arriving or hire a car. Keep in mind that good value and authentic food options nearby are limited, and taxis into the town aren’t cheap. But if you want calm, comfort, and conversation, all right on the beach, this is the place.
Stop 4: Zamas
Our next stop was Zamas, a beachfront classic with a big personality and a great location. Set on a sandy curve just north of the main hotel zone. Like Olas, Zamas has been around since before Tulum exploded in popularity, and you can feel that relaxed, slightly nostalgic spirit throughout the property.
The decor is joyful and unpretentious – a riot of bright textiles, mismatched furniture, and hand-painted tiles. It’s vibrant without feeling try-hard, with a lived-in charm that immediately puts you at ease. There’s a mix of colourful beachfront huts – compact and simple but right on the beach, larger rooms away from the waterfront and then a larger villa set further back, perfect for families or groups with their breezy gardens, pool and more spacious interiors.
One of the real highlights here was the staff — warm, welcoming and genuinely lovely, they added a personal touch to every interaction. From beach bar cocktails to local recommendations, we felt looked after without being fussed over. There’s an onsite dive shop right next to the hotel, ideal for anyone wanting to explore the reef or try their hand at a bit of underwater adventure.
There’s a tech-friendly twist too: QR codes dotted around the site make ordering food and drinks a breeze, and each room has its own unique WiFi code. But nothing about Zamas feels corporate — it’s cheerful, charming, and very Tulum-in-its-own-lane.
Stop 5: Ser CasaSandra
From Tulum, we travelled north to Chiquilá by bus (about 3-4 hours), then took the ferry across to Isla Holbox. This island has changed a lot in recent years – it’s now firmly on the traveller trail but still retains a car-free, sandy-footed charm. Holbox is the kind of place where roads are sand, bikes are the norm, and you’ll see pelicans as often as people. It can get busy – especially in high season – but has a gentle, relaxed vibe compared to the more scene-y destinations like Tulum.
We finished at Ser CasaSandra — and what a way to end. If you’re up for a splurge, it delivers. Thoughtful service, romantic design and an unbeatable location in the heart of Holbox’s beachfront action — yet somehow it still felt serene. The hotel is a soulful blend of art, poetry and barefoot luxury. Owned by Cuban artist Sandra Pérez, the interiors are inspired by her own home, filled with meaningful touches and thoughtful design. Service was faultless — our room was discreetly tended to multiple times a day, and the fridge (stocked with drinks) was replenished regularly. There were also lovely personal touches, like daily poems and incense.
Rooms are serene, service is exceptional, and the location – right on the beach yet steps from the island’s heart – is unbeatable. Bikes to borrow, a fabulous daily breakfast, yoga, a spa, and plenty of little treats were all included. It’s a dream for couples and special occasions, but less ideal if you’re on a budget or hoping to avoid crowds entirely. For us, it was a blissful finale (and worth every penny, we think) for a few days of indulgent calm.
Date published: 04 Jun 2025
Last updated: 27 Aug 2025