When I was looking for a relaxing holiday with my mum, cheap flights and rural bliss were my main priorities. Porto was a clear winner – and the countryside surrounding it promised all the off-the-beaten-path tranquility we were hoping for. We started with a couple of nights in a cottage hideaway in the Serra da Estrela mountain range and then made our way to the beautiful Minho region to stay on a family-owned vineyard with a rich history and the most delicious wine.
Stop 1: The Estrela Mountain Hideaway
I must admit, I was nervous winding my way up the narrow, twisty roads in our little rental car. But once you get to the quiet village of Lapa dos Dinheiros, high on the slopes of the Serra da Estrela mountain range, and catch sight of the view – it’s all worth it. We checked in at their sister hotel, Casas da Lapa Nature & Spa, and then (to my dismay) were told to drive further up to get to The Estrela Mountain Hideaway. Up we trundled, along dirt tracks and around tight corners until finally, we had arrived. (Without a scratch, I’m proud to say.)
Maybe it was the thinner mountain air, but the view really did take my breath away. We were staying in the larger of the two cottages which has an open-plan lounge and kitchen area downstairs, and two double bedrooms upstairs, each with their own ensuite and dressing room. Because of its traditional stone construction and sparse windows, the cottage is dark, but not gloomy. And we didn’t end up spending much time inside during the day, anyway.
We went straight up to the terraced garden, and lounged by the infinity pool with its jaw dropping views. The pool and garden is shared between the two self-catering cottages on the property, surrounded by sun-loungers and a couple of hammocks. It’s a great spot for adventurous families (and their furry friends) looking for a hidden gem.
Because of its secluded location, you get a real feel for rural Portuguese village life. Slow, mindful travel has become a growing trend, and in this place, it was easy to embrace. Gazing out over the stunning mountain vista, with the sound of people singing drifting over from the local church, I felt myself slip into that happy, holiday dream-state. By the time our daily breakfast basket was delivered the next morning, with warm homemade bread, cheeses, ham, eggs and juice, I felt like I could stay forever.
If I had, I would have gotten very fit. The thing to do in this area is hike, and with its peak location, that’s no easy feat. Even just the walk between The Estrela Mountain Hideaway and Casas da Lapa Nature & Spa, for the occasional meal or massage, was more like a mountain-climbing expedition than a leisurely stroll. You definitely feel you’re earning your relaxation by the pool.
Stop 2: Casas da Lapa Nature & Spa
Down a steep path from The Estrela Mountain Hideaway is its sister hotel, Casas da Lapa Nature & Spa. With two outdoor pools, a restaurant, spa and lots of secluded spots to enjoy the sunshine and look out at the views, we found it to be the perfect little luxury excursion from our secluded hillside cottage. The spa has a sauna, steam room and an indoor pool, there’s a library lined with books in different languages and even a cinema room. And though the staff don’t speak amazing English, we were so grateful for their warm and friendly service throughout our stay. It’s truly a haven of peace, quiet and a little bit of indulgence. And, I’d imagine, the perfect place to stop and recuperate if you’re trekking along the GR22.
But maybe the most memorable part was the food. We had dinner at the restaurant here both nights of our stay: a tasting menu they call their ‘5 moments dinner’ with wine pairings, and it felt like a Michelin star experience. Olive tapenade, sweet potato crudo with cod salad, lapa-style duck rice, and for dessert, a scrumptious crème brulée. We also had breakfast here one morning which can be taken from 9am all the way to 1pm and was similar to our daily breakfast basket, with the addition of fresh fruit and pancakes.
When it was time to pack up the car and brave the roads back down the mountain again, we were sad to say goodbye.
Stop 3: Terra Rosa Country House & Vineyards
Wildfires had sprung up around Porto, so our journey to Terra Rosa Country House & Vineyards was slowed by massive diversions. A huge fire was spreading across a nearby mountain, and the noise of helicopters and sirens seemed to follow us for most of the drive.
When we finally arrived, it felt like entering into an oasis (despite the lingering smoke in the air). We drove down an old dirt track framed by lush green to the main buildings. With stone exteriors, rippled terracotta roofs and views over sprawling rows of vineyard, you instantly feel you’re stepping back in time. There are 70 hectares of grounds to explore here, and as soon as we arrived, we were whisked off on a tour of the historic property. We stopped into the main indoor dining area which was, at one time, where hops were dried for beer. Now, it’s where they have their mini giftshop and set up the buffet breakfast in the morning.
Next, we were led to an old outbuilding that houses a pool table, comfy sofas, and a full kitchen with a huge dining table, where private chefs are sometimes invited to cook for large groups. We passed by an old chapel on the grounds, with a scallop shell on the outside marking the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela, and a wine bar where you can get your “tea time and cake” in the afternoon to have by the lovely heated pool.
It’s a serene countryside refuge that’s clearly been lovingly restored and cared for. The owners, a father-daughter team, have big plans for the future – including the renovation of a small house in the middle of the vineyard with its own private swimming pool. They’d also like to open a shop where they can sell their wine onsite. But for now, they are focusing on giving the utmost care and consideration to the property and their guests. We especially loved their staff, who were endlessly welcoming and accommodating.
We spent our days lounging by the pool, eating on the terrace and sipping some of the delicious house wine at sunset. That’s when we weren’t exploring the grounds, or taking a quick cycle down to the river for some excellent birdwatching.
In this tranquil spot, in the heart of Portugal’s beautiful countryside, even with smoke rising up from distant hills, it was hard not to feel totally at peace.
