An insider's guide to Sicily

By Michael Cullen, Co-founder

sicily quote

JUMP TO: BEST BEACHES | TOP HIKES | CHANIA |

Why Sicily?

Sicily ticks every box on every wishlist. From the snow-capped volcano of Mt Etna to the sunny, sandy shores of the southeast, from bustling Arab-Norman Palermo to the Baroque jewel-boxes of Noto and Ragusa, from the Greek temples of Agrigento and Taormina’s theatre to the spellbinding Roman mosaics of the Piazza Armerina villa, there’s something for everyone.

If your wanderlust is still unsatiated, catch a ferry or hydrofoil to one of the satellite islands – Favignana to the west, Salina and the Aeolian islands to the north – for translucent blue seas, an unhurried pace of life and (in the Aeolian) the spectacle of still-smouldering volcanoes arising straight from the ocean.

Sicily is easy to get to, with plenty of scheduled flights into Catania and the capital Palermo – which, incidentally, makes a very underrated city break – as well as low-cost connections to Trapani. Despite its history as the heartland of the Italian mafia (which still operates, though without its former stranglehold), you’ll find it a safe, welcoming and extremely friendly place. The food is excellent in a hearty, rustic way: homemade pastas, fresh fish spiced up with capers and tomatoes, tender artichoke hearts, baked aubergine with ricotta, the creamiest of cannoli, and the lightest, fruitiest gelati and granite imaginable.

When to go

Rural Sicily is at its best in spring (April-early June) and autumn (September-October) – though be aware that the interior can be chilly.

Summer (July and August) can bring scorching temperatures and packed beaches.

The cities move to their own rhythm, but winter is certainly an option if you want to escape the crowds.

Our top beaches

1. Calamosche, Eloro

Two beautiful beaches in the Vendicari Nature Reserve, with no roads nearby the peacuful coves are considered among the best in Sicily. Calamosche, with its calm waters ideal for snorkeling, is slightly farther in (about a 1 km walk) but well worth the effort. Eloro, closer to the entrance, is more easily accessible but a bit less sheltered. Both beaches are very popular, especially in the summer, so a morning outing to beat the crowd and enjoy the spectacular water.

2. Vendicari

Enjoy lazy days in the coastal nature reserve of Vendicari, with its stunning beaches (some accessible on foot only) and bird-watching.

3. Santa Maria del Focallo near Ispica

12km of long sandy beach backed by dunes has calm, clear water perfect for a family beach day.

4. Donnalucata and Scoglitti

Long, wide and surf-streaked beaches backed by quaint towns.

5. Favignana (pictured below)

The largest of the Egadi Islands off the west coast of Sicily with exceptional beaches, try: Calamoni Beach or Cala Rossa. Rent a boat to see the island from the sea and head into coves and caves and if you’re lucky you may see a passing dolphin or turtle! Il Baglio sull’Acqua organises daily boat excursions..

The best gorge’s to explore

Alcantara Gorge, (near Naxos) where a turquoise river cuts through jagged ravines. You can paddle in the water (icy in winter, refreshingly cool in summer), or try canyoning or rafting.
Cava Grande gorge, (near Noto) a must see for hikers, it’s 300m deep and bissected by an emerald river which forms green pools. To escape the weekend crowds, turn left when you reach the valley floor and picnic on the smooth-rocked banks.
Cava d’Ispica, (near Modica) a spectacular hike along the deep limestone gorge of which its cliffs are dotted with hermits’ tombs and climbers abseiling into them; take a boat tour along the Ciane river; cycle through the gorge and necropolis of Pantalica (contact Sud Estremo); and spot migrating waders around Capo Passero. The Cava Ipsica caves are also close; these have remains and ruins dating across millennia.

Picturesque Baroque towns and their best restaurants

Ragusa

An impressive baroque town, sited on a cliff-ringed spur with steepled duomo rising above a jumble of tiled medieval roofs and warren of tangled alleys dominating a deep valley (pictured below).

Eat:

Ciccio Sultano Duomo: where one of Italy’s best chefs Ciccio Sultano (according to Gambero Rosso magazine), prepares Michelin-starred Sicilian delicacies in his elegant restaurant near the Duomo

Modica

Listed as a World Heritage site for its vernacular architecture and Baroque churches, Modica was mostly rebuilt after Sicily’s 1693 earthquake. It’s divided into Modica Bassa, whose main thoroughfare (Corso Umberto) lies at your feet, and Modica Alta on the hill opposite, capped by a castle and clocktower. The two sides line the valley like an improbably ornate stage set. Be sure to try the famous, crunchy local chocolate.

Eat:

Accursio: Michelin star restaurant.
Osteria di Sapori Perduti: on Corso Umberto, where we’ve enjoyed delicious antipasti in the past.

Ortigia

Wander around the pretty peninsular town of Ortigia, the historic heart of Siracusa, with its fabulous cathedral, Greek ruins, fortress, ancient buildings, narrow alleys and waterfront walks. Explore the narrow streets of the island of Ortigia, the poetic “white pearl of Syracuse”, connected to the mainland by 3 bridges, the oldest of which is Umbertino.

Eat:

trattorie Al Mazari: near the Piazza Duomo, a firm favourite for regional dishes
Dave Sicilian Taste: which serves lots of tasty-looking seafood and pasta dishes in a lovely candlelit setting
Piano B: charcoal grill and pizza restaurant, in the ‘new town’ across the bridge
Fratelli Burgio: a trendy deli excellent for lunch, serving meat and cheese boards, fish platters and sandwiches stuffed with marinated vegetables
Antica Giudecca: a favourite amongst locals for its outsized arancini balls filled with ragu, spinach or aubergine. You can also order savoury pies and pizza.
Bianco Pepe: has tables outside in a hidden square overlooking a church and serves delicious pizza

San Giorgio

Nestled along the northern coast, San Giorgio is a charming seaside village and its quiet streets retains much of its rustic authenticity. Family run trattorias fill the narrow streets with a buzz and the village comes alive in late April during the local festival of Saint George, the village’s patron saint.

Eat:

Etnea Roof Bar and Restaurant: try the octopus and thyme-seared squid whilst enjoying romantic views over the city.
U Fucularu: the ever busy restaurant is famed for the best sea bass in town.
Lognina: on the portside comes highly recommended for its seafood and sea views.
Pasticceria Savia: renowned for arancini and gelato – locals have it to go and head over the road to the Bellini Garden to snack.

Noto

Rebuilt from scratch after the 1693 earthquake, the ethereal World Heritage town of Noto is one of the Baroque gems of Sicily. Much of it is visible from the city’s roof terraces (pictured below).

Eat:

Il Cantuccio: tucked into tastefully lit, vaulted chambers, where you get impeccably presented nouveau Sicilian cuisine, including mini platters of local cheeses with pistachio sauce, fronds of grilled octopus, and a perfect ratatouille
Caffé Sicilia: serves the island’s best sweets at simple streetside tables on the main drag: creamy cassata and cannoli, iced coffee with whipped cream, moist cupcakes, and homemade gelati and granite bursting with the flavours of strawberry, almond and lemon which is not to be missed!
Trattoria Baglieri: for a more down-to-earth fare and laid-back atmosphere, this restaurant near the church serves large pasta portions, which are fresh and decidedly al dente. Best accompanied by fried fennel, artichokes or wild asparagus, washed down with decent Nero d’Avola, and followed by a deliciously melting chocolate mousse.

Best excursions

Hikes

Salina has twin volcanic peaks – hence the Greek name of Didyme (‘twins’) – which you can climb with or without a guide; there’s a map at reception, but don’t underestimate the ascent of 900m in the heat
Follow some of the Aeolian Islands‘ other 18 marked trails – the 4-hour hike from the abandoned building above Pollara round to Leni is relatively flat and lined with exotic maquis.
Climb Pantelleria island’s highest peak, Montagna Grande (843m), then seek out the natural hot sauna in a grotto on the side of the mountain
Nebrodi Mountains
Vendicari Nature Reserve for a peaceful explore, visit the bird-rich lagoons and road-free coves. Bring your swimming costume to enjoy the untouched coves, and walk to Calamosche for total seclusion.
Mount Etna (read below)

Valley of the Temples at Agrigento

One of the finest Greek sites in the world, and just half an hour away by car. Perched on low hills overlooking the sea are 3 well preserved Doric temples from the 5th century BC, plus various jumbled ruins and a rich museum

Mount Etna

Europe’s tallest, most active volcano is well worth a visit (even from a distance) to admire the volcano and its surrounding national park.

Go up Mount Etna: either by hiking up the slope cable car up the southern flank to Refugio Sapienza (2500m), from where guided tours take visitors as close to the craters as it’s safe to go. You can take a winding road up through the national park, through fields of solidified lava and singed trees to one of the various access points for stunning views, exploring vents and craters.

Visit the prestigious wineries on the slopes of Etna, where there are some of the few vineyards in Europe to have survived phylloxera. We love the crow’s nest village of Castelmola, perched on a cliff overlooking Taormina, sip almond wine as the sun sets over Mt Etna.

Enjoy a boat trip

Embark on a boat trip around Ortigia with local guides, or rent a boat (with or without a skipper).

We’d recommend the coastal stretch from Scauri to the famous Elephant Arch or visiting a sheltered cove and swim off its black rocks at Cala Tramontana, Cala Levante or Balata dei Turchi. The clear water and intriguing submarine landscapes are perfect for diving or snorkelling.

Exploring Favignana by boat would certainly be a highlight of your trip.

Mirror of Venus

The thermal water of The Lake of Venus (otherwise known as Mirror of Venus) is a popular haven for wellness and relaxation on Pantelleria island. Slather yourself in mineral-rich mud scooped from the warm, turquoise waters of the crater lake, which has restorative properties. On the same island as Tenuta Borgia, the lake makes for an excellent wellness outing.

Take a cooking course

Learn how to make typical Sicilian dishes such as caponata, parmigiana, ravioli with ricotta cheese and sarde a beccafico. Some courses will include a trip to the market to acquire ingredients and learn about local wine. Many hotels offer these with their own chefs, or can refer you to a local cookery school for a lesson.

A guide to Palmero - Sicily's capital

Stroll around the island’s capital city Palermo – a fascinating city of crumbling palazzi, glittering yachts, Baroque churches and flagged alleys worn smooth by the centuries. It was once a flagship of Arab culture, then the seat of Norman kings; today it’s a melting pot where you can dine on everything from pasta to couscous, and admire stunning architecture in varying states of repair.
Visit the Norman Palace, now the seat of the Sicilian Regional Assembly. Wander through its arcaded courtyard and stately rooms, and admire the Palatine Chapel, whose Arabian carved ceiling and bejewelled arches will take your breath away
Browse Sicilian art at the Palazzo Abatellis art gallery, or view the classical marbles at the archaeological museum. In late May ‘Il Genio di Palermo’ contemporary art exhibitions take place.
The Vucciria, Ballarò and del Capo street markets are a must, as much for the people-watching and atmosphere as for the chance to buy exotic fruit and veg.
Mondello Beach isn’t far with clear water and white sand (bay pictured below).

Festivals in Sicily

As life moves outdoors from June to September, Sicily’s squares, ancient theatres and gardens host all manner of concerts, shows and religious and folklore events…

World Festival on the Beach, Mondello (near Palermo), mid-May

Windsurfing, kite-surfing, beach volleyball, sailing, golf, jazz and classical music.

Greek Theatre Festival, Siracusa, May to June

Open-air performances of Greek plays and tragedies in Siracusa’s vast amphitheatre.

Taormina Arte, Taormina, June to late August

A series of open-air performances in Taormina’s ancient Greek theatre, including dance, theatre and rock, jazz and classical music concerts (past appearances include Sting and the Bolshoi Ballet). It kicks off in June with the star-studded Taormina Film Festival.

Kals’Art, Palermo, mid-July to mid-September

A 2-month open-air celebration in the city’s Kalsa quarter, which has gone from strength to strength since its 2003 inauguration. It covers music (mostly ethnic, jazz and emerging local pop bands), cinema (open-air screenings, mostly in Italian), theatre (daily performances in Italian during the middle fortnight of the festival) and art (mostly modern). There’s also an open-door policy on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings to all the churches and other historic buildings within the Kalsa quarter.

Verdura Festival, Palermo, July

Pop, rock and jazz gigs take over the Teatro Massimo during the summer months. Recent performers include Chick Corea, Caetano Veloso, Simple Minds and Gianna Nannini.

Santa Rosalia Festival, Palermo, 9-15 July

Huge parades and processions through the historical centre, in memory of Palermo’s patron saint who saved the city from plague 400 years ago and has been honoured annually ever since. It culminates in an evening of music and fireworks.

Kals’Art Winter, Palermo, December to early January

Classical music concerts in churches around the city, plus fairy-tale street lighting.

Other events include ‘Church Music at Monreale’ (late October to early November), a pilgrimage to Monte Pellegrino (4 September) and ‘Il Genio di Palermo’ contemporary art exhibitions (late May).

Taormina

Near Mount Etna