Just back from Thailand: finding gems after 25 years

Our resident Southeast Asia expert, Ben, has recently spent two weeks rekindling his love affair with Thailand. Having visited over 10 times, he knows a thing or two about the country, but even now he’s still discovering unspoilt islands that remind him of his very first trip over 20 years ago.

I love Thailand. It was the first place I travelled to when I was 20 years old, and I’ve been lucky enough to go back so many times since I’ve lost count. Several years had passed since my last visit so a reunion felt long overdue. My partner and I spent two blissful weeks hopping between the Phang Nga and Krabi regions, finishing with a couple of days in bustling Bangkok.

Whilst some areas have sadly succumbed to the reality of mass tourism, it warmed my cockles to find some islands are still blissfully stuck in a time warp and letting the world wash around them. Koh Yao Noi and Koh Jum were highlights – if I never looked in a mirror, Koh Jum could easily pass for the Thailand of my youth. The welcomes were warm, food incredible and island vibe so languid it’s comatose. Boy, it felt good to be back.

Stop 1: Koyao Island Resort

First, we headed to Koh Yao Noi, off the coast of Phuket, and the wonderfully laidback Koyao Island Resort. A huge plus for this hotel is the island it’s located on. It’s an absolute gem – big enough to offer hidden beaches and villages to explore, small enough to make you feel like a local after day 2.  

The main part of the hotel is located right by the beach (one of the better ones on the island), with villas spread out amongst palm dotted lawns. They’re all beautifully breezy with big sea views. They’re also open sided, have no locks and no gadgets – this is hotel policy (wifi being the only concession). Their aim is for people to come and connect with their surroundings. I’m totally behind this ethos and we were more than happy to be free of tech for a while.

We stayed in the slightly separate ‘9 Hornbills’, a clutch of tented villas perched on the hillside above the main hotel with incredible views over lush greenery towards Phang Nga Bay. Each tent is huge, ultra private and comes with an infinity pool to lap up those views and swim under the stars – ideal for honeymooners and couples. Inside, you get oodles of space: four-poster beds, a separate sitting area complete with writing desk, roll top bathtubs and his ‘n her sinks. It’s top end luxury with the bonus of feeling that little bit closer to nature. As you’re nestled up in the hills, it’s real escapism; we spent our first day holed up here, swimming, eating and generally pampering ourselves with a good book, serenaded by incredible birdsong and butterflies flitting around. Magical.

Breakfast is either delivered to your tent or you can take it beachside down at the hotel. It’s a decent spread of eggs any way, fresh fruit, a loaded bread basket etc. They also offer a “floating” breakfast in your private pool (an instagrammable treat for some but a disconcerting concept for others. I politely declined).  

Dinner at the restaurant, though lacking a bit of atmosphere (a running theme for all hotels – customers tend to eat out in Thailand), was one of the best of our trip. The massaman curry here was phenomenal, as was the equally delicious roast duck yellow curry with morning glory.        

My partner, Jo, absolutely loved the tents, but having to order a lift every time you want to get to/from started to niggle after a couple of days. I think 2 nights in the tents and 5 down at the hotel on the beach would be the perfect arrangement for a week. With so much space to roam, it’s also a great option for families (lots were staying while we were there). 

We loved the place for its easy-going vibes, but it might not be for everyone (especially if you hate bugs and expect a certain level of facilities when paying top dollar). It’s looking a little tired in places and the staff were a bit too laidback at times… but a few simple tweaks would make this hotel absolutely exceptional!

Stop 2: Rayavadee

Bidding a sad goodbye to Koyao, we boarded the daily speedboat at the ferry port to whisk us to East Raleigh. In about 40 minutes, we were at our next destination. Rayavadee, nestled between three gorgeous beaches on the Phranang Peninsula, is the definition of a bucket list hotel. I remember drooling at this hotel through my hazy backpacker eyes over 25 years ago, like Charlie looking at the chocolate factory, so it felt quite surreal returning as a guest. We spent 24 jam-packed hours here (which happened to align with my birthday) – there’s a lot to see and I was determined to squeeze it all in!

Much of that time was spent eating. From the moment we arrived, drink after tropical drink appeared beside us, then a bottle of wine and a whole cheesecake for my birthday. Oh, go on then. Complimentary afternoon tea with a seemingly infinite amount of food? Please and thank you. Followed closely by a lavish 3-course meal. That was before waking up to a mega mall of a breakfast buffet. We literally ROLLED out of there. It’s obscene, and luckily, I’m obscenely greedy. 

Food and emotions aside, the hotel is impressive. It’s a huge site with more facilities than you can shake a stick at – spas, gym, tennis courts, kayaks & SUPs, multiple restaurants and bars, daily scheduled activities etc. I won’t bore you with it all, but it’s safe to say you really need a minimum of 4 nights just to take it all in – and that’s before you even think about trying to relax.

The villas are like hexagonal mushrooms popping up out of the jungle. There are almost 100 of them, but they’re buried so deep amongst lush foliage they still feel discreet. I loved that each one is a mini house, with a living area downstairs (large sofa, TV, minibar) and a curving staircase up to the main bedroom, where we found a huge bed, writing desk and generous ensuite (bath, separate shower, double sinks). All the villas are exactly the same: think colonial(ish) style with lots of dark polished teak. Family villas consist of two joined together; some have terraces, some have private pools. Other than that, the same décor, style and layout runs throughout. 

If I were being picky, some aspects aren’t feeling as polished as you would expect for this price range. Renovations are underway, but it’ll be a slow process as they’re doing small areas at a time. There was also an elephant in the room – the three beaches on the doorstep are on the verge of overtourism. Phra Nang beach is a poster boy for Thai holidays and is firmly on the itinerary for day trippers coming over from Phuket. The beaches are undeniably stunning, but can become so busy during the day that they’re almost unusable for hotel guests. They go on their merry way in the late afternoon, but it’s a shame to feel confined to the hotel when the beaches are such a big draw. 

However, if I have to be confined anywhere, Rayavadee will do very nicely. Apart from this caveat, it was still an incredible experience and a real ‘one off’. I’d go back in a heartbeat.

Stop 3: Koh Jum Beach Villas

Next, we moved on to the star of the show: Koh Jum. This was exactly the Thailand I remember from all those years ago! How long I’ve been chasing that dream, and it was here all along. Super chilled, friendly and still relatively untouched – tourism is thankfully still a secondary income here. The island has a tiny, rough-n-ready fisherman’s village, one road and a perfect sprinkle of shops, family restaurants and driftwood beach bars to sate your appetite.

I cannot overstate how much I loved Koh Jum Beach Villas. Beautiful houses with no pretension spread out within manicured tropical gardens that span a long stretch of secluded beach. It’s not the best beach on the island due to low tide rocks, but it’s wild and natural. From our villa, we spotted huge crabs, eagles and green snakes. It was totally serene. 

The hodgepodge of villas comes in varying sizes and shapes, scattered throughout the grounds; mature foliage provides lots of cover, so you can barely see most of them. The villas are all individually owned and let out when the owners are away. We stayed in Baan Raj, which was situated on the beachfront. I’d recommend choosing a villa by the beach – wandering down for a morning swim is priceless, and the villas further back miss out on the gentle sea breeze. Some have private pools, and all are kitted out with fully equipped kitchens. Some are for couples, while larger options work well for families. Each one is unique, and there’s so much variety that it’s almost overwhelming, but it means there’s a villa to suit almost anyone. You’re very much left to your own devices, but if you want to mingle and step out of the cocoon, they have a restaurant, bar and swimming pool in the heart of the grounds.

The breakfast was buffet style at the restaurant (offered in high season when there are enough guests). There was a good selection of Thai dishes (which we actually found to be better than the dinner) and an egg station whipping up fab runny omelettes. All the usual suspects – pastries, fruit, yoghurt – were also available. Dinner was served under fairy lights overlooking the beach, but the food didn’t quite live up to the setting – our chicken massaman and yellow fish curry were nice if a tad average. They also serve some western dishes (pasta and burgers) along with a seriously impressive wine cellar (a passion of the owner), something unique on the island and a draw for some. There are a handful of great local eateries a short stroll away. 

If you can only go to one place in Thailand, this should be it. It’s a no-brainer. Easy to reach yet totally secluded. Well suited to both couples and families. The villas are not over-styled and the facilities are low-key: perfect for people looking to slow down and connect with nature from the comfort of a very nice home. 

I cannot comprehend how anyone could not fall in love with this place. If you’ve ever been tempted to chuck your phone in the bin and escape the world for a while, this is for you. I’ll meet you there – I’ve mentally pencilled in a lost year here.

Stop 4: Old Capital Bike Inn

And just like that, our time in Thailand was coming to an end. Time to shake off the sand and put our city hats on as we headed north to Bangkok. We were checking into Old Capital Bike Inn, a family-run B&B in the heart of the historic centre. Jason and the team really make this place. At first glance, the rooms were slightly underwhelming – some were lacking in daylight and well worn in places – but the warm welcome makes you instantly forgive any shortcomings. This place has soul. It’s such a lovely spot in a great central location, and the guest lounge/lobby feels like a little antique tea shop. The photos don’t quite do the place justice, but you’ll just have to trust me – it feels good here.  

We stayed in a King Loft Suite, which had a very steep ladder to the mezzanine sleeping level. It won’t work for everyone, but it was comfortable, and the hand-painted murals (all rooms have them) add buckets of charm. I really liked the rooms on the ground floor; the Garden Suite was the standout, with a four-poster bed, lots of space, a private little garden and a tub beneath a glass ceiling. The twin room, whilst technically the smallest, was also really cute and cosy. 

The breakfasts are amazing. You order the night before, and it’s all freshly prepared: Asian doughnuts with pandan custard, grilled pork skewers with sticky rice, waffles, eggs and Chinese sausage. Everything was beautifully presented. There aren’t as many tables as guests, a potential issue if everyone wants brekkie at the same time.

If it’s your first time in Bangkok and you want to tick off the cultural highlights, you couldn’t be better placed. The Golden Mountain, Metal Palace, King Rama VII’s Museum, and Phan Fah Boat Pier are all across the street. They have beautiful vintage bikes (in top condition) for guests to borrow and organise group night rides 3 times a week, which is popular and really unique.

There’s some construction going on opposite, which will be in situ for another 3 years. While eating breakfast in the window seats, we watched a man in flip-flops scale bamboo scaffolding 100m up with no harness. Not something you’d see back home. However, other than it being a bit of an eyesore, it didn’t affect our stay and most guests seemed unfazed by it. All credit to the Jason and his team, who effortlessly keep the atmosphere fun, friendly and a joy to feel a part of.