Our Kids Collection Editor Nadine and her family wanted to explore a region of Spain they’d never been to for October half-term, and chose wild and wonderful Asturias for a memorable weekend break.
Now that both my kids are studying Spanish (my eldest is doing so for A-level) we decided to head to Spain for October half-term, this time in the hopes of discovering someplace new for us all. We had heard about the beautiful coastline and verdant mountains of Asturias, at the north of the Iberian peninsula. One of the four autonomous communities along the top of the country, bordered by Galicia and Cantabria, this region promised laid-back charm, lots of seafood and affordable flights – which sounded just what we needed.
Day 1: San Esteban
We flew in to Asturias/Oviedo airport, collected the car and sped off along scenic expressways, cutting through rugged mountains and soaring over green valleys, then looping round and down alongside the Nalon estuary, a mere 15-minute journey. Here sits quiet little San Esteban, once a coal port whose industrial heritage can be seen in the loading gear still inhabiting the riverfront. Just back from the river, we found our new home for the next few days: Gran Hotel Brillante.
This former pension recently turned boutique hotel (after an extensive renovation) is graced with lovely original features in its high ceilings and elegant windows, parquet floors and a gracious staircase. We stayed on the third floor, in the Xilo Residence, which has fabulous river views, a chic master bedroom with an ensuite marble bathroom, and a living-dining-kitchen area where the kids slept on a sofa bed.
Once we’d gotten settled in, we wandered along the Nalon estuary to the beach to watch the mighty waves crash into black jagged rocks. We spotted a sheltered section for bathing in the summer. We found a stick insect. Saw a falcon swoop down on some waders (it missed) and marvelled at the contrast between the Atlantic Ocean and the utterly calm estuary.
Despite Asturias being nicknamed the England of Spain for its wet weather and mild temperatures, we barely saw a cloud in the sky, and enjoyed the warmth of the sun for the duration of our stay – which made exploring all the more enjoyable. Fortunately, San Esteban is centrally positioned in the province, and within easy reach of all the surrounding sights.
Day 2: Aviles & Gijon
Breakfasts at Gran Hotel Brillante were a crowd-pleasing buffet spread, including cold cuts, cheese, delicious olives, boiled eggs, omelettes, cakes, yoghurts and fruit. The pancakes and nutella were a hit with my son.
After our indulgent breakfast, we made tracks to industrial Aviles for a wander around Oscar Niemeyer International Cultural Centre, an architectural creation which lends itself to photographic study. We also went to the central market so my youngest could look at the fish and seafood, and the medieval St Thomas of Canterbury church where devotees were kissing Christ’s feet.
Next to Gijon, known as the Brighton of Spain. Here, we admired the far-reaching curve of the town’s windswept beach, watched birds fishing in the shallow waters of the marina, and trekked up onto the promontory to the Parque Santa Catalina, with great long views out to sea. From here, we wandered into the Old Town with its historic buildings, and stopped for a slow lunch of classic Asturias fare including fabada (a sausage and white bean stew), fish cakes, and prawns and octopus slathered in garlic.
Day 3: Cudillero & Ribadasella
The next day we took in the cute fishing village of Cudillero, considered one of the most beautiful in the country, cascading down to the sea through a narrow opening in the rocky ranges. We were lucky to see it outside of the busy summer months. Diverted by a film shoot, a period drama making the most of the unspoiled buildings, we walked up to the lighthouse for a panoramic view of the spectacular coastal scenery.
The impressive karst mountain ranges hereabouts are known as the Picos de Europa, so-called as they were the first sight of the continent for mariners returning from the Americas. They run sort of parallel to the coast, and we drove up to a mirador for a closer look. Cow bells rang out as doleful herds moved from one pasture to another, and formations of enormous griffon vultures floated above. We badly timed our arrival into Ribadesella, also on a river estuary with the Picos de Europa peaks forming a backdrop, as their limestone caves featuring 29,000-year old prehistoric art, a Unesco-listed World Heritage Site, are closed on Tuesdays.
Back at Gran Hotel Brillante, we tucked into a slap-up three-course affair involving Iberian cheeks, Basque cheesecake, yummy baked cheese and anchovies, jamon and artichoke, cod in pil pil sauce (my favourite) and an Asturian creme caramel. The perfect way to end a blissful stay that felt much longer than a weekend away.
If you’re looking for an easy getaway, I would definitely recommend Asturias. We loved the scenery, the food, the friendly people, and our charming hotel.
And every morning, including our last, we woke before sunrise and opened our Juliet balcony windows to see the rays shine forth above the hills to the east across the estuary. The waters were always calm, with ever-changing reflections and ripples. Utterly magical.