No matter how many times I visit Italy, it never fails to bewitch and captivate me. I’ve returned again and again, hopping from Venice to Rome to the dazzling coast. This time I wanted something slightly different – slower, quieter, off the beaten path – so I could fully unwind and take in the food, culture and beauty at a leisurely pace. A journey through Tuscany and Umbria during harvest season was the obvious choice.
Early autumn is a great time to come to this part of the world if you’re hungry – the lanes are clogged with tractors, the fields abuzz with noise and work, and the locals are jubulent and celebratory. The searing heat of the summer has abated and wine festivals are in full swing, so it’s ideal for exploring the hilltop towns. And as evenings start to draw in, the fruits of their land and labour join bottles of bold reds on the table, for meals you won’t forget in a hurry.
Stop 1: Locanda Rossa
Our first stop was Locanda Rossa, a rosy-red farmhouse set amongst verdant pastures and vivid greenery. We were greeted by the manager Barbara; a ball of energy and infectious humour. Having been here from the very start, she’s helped build this place into the gem it is today, and shares her passion for it as she circulates between guests.
It all began with an old farmhouse surrounded by olive trees, which was then extended to add family villas and two newer buildings with rooms. The rooms in the original house have calming muted decor and come in all shapes and sizes, whilst the new rooms pack a punch of bright primary colours.
The breakfast buffet was an incredible Italian spread with all the finest produce: fresh, gooey mozzarella balls, ricotta, charcuterie, olives, scrambled eggs, bacon, cakes and flaky pastries. They also produce olive oil from their groves that puts our shop-bought stuff to shame. The restaurant space felt bright and modern and from morning till evening the food was consistently delicious.
The surrounding area is not the rolling, green Tuscan countryside you’ve seen in films (rather a bit flat and empty), but there’s lots to see if you branch out with a car. Other than that, it’s practically perfect: staff are happy and friendly, grounds are kept pristine and rooms are stylish. There are also lots of activities and facilities onsite with 2 pools (one for adults, one for families), table tennis, a gym, donkeys and goats, padel and tennis courts, a spa (free for i-escape guests) and a restaurant/bar with a fabulous atmosphere. It ticks so many boxes it’s hard to know who wouldn’t like it here.
Stop 2: Castello di Fighine
Though it was hard to let go of Locanda Rossa (and Barbara), it was soon time for our next stop: Castello di Fighine, a small hilltop hamlet of renovated cottages, villas and apartments, dominated by a huge castle in rural surroundings. Oh, and a famous Michelin-starred restaurant to boot.
The houses have been meticulously restored to a high level – almost museum-like in their authenticity. Spacious and packed with character, they instantly transport you to a land of renaissance nobility – but with all your modern amenities. Villa Janine was the star of the show, with views, old-world charm, terraced gardens and a private pool. Villa Melissa also has a pool, but it’s located across the hamlet. (This means, if you want a drink or forget your book, you have to traipse back through the village in your swimsuit.)
All the other properties are townhouses with beautiful decor and small outdoor space. Because there’s nowhere to mingle with other guests and no communal pool, these feel more like independent holiday homes. But it’s perfect for travellers seeking out quiet and privacy in a romantic old village setting.
We stayed in one of the apartments, which were cosy and slightly more English countryside in décor. They have no kitchens, but you do get treated to a delicious continental breakfast delivered to your door every morning. And it’s the perfect place if you’re coming for a meal at the infamous Castello di Fighine Restaurant and want to stay the night after indulging in a few glasses of wine.
The restaurant is incredible. An absolute masterclass in fine dining and extracting maximum flavour from every ingredient. The sweetest, most mouthwatering sweetbread I’ve ever eaten, pigeon encased in wax for a month before smoking in wild herbs – it was all mindbogglingly good. The bill was expectedly eye-watering but when a meal becomes a memory, it’s worth every penny.
The area is remote and anything of note is a decent drive away, but you’re rewarded with tranquil surroundings and unspoilt countryside on the doorstep. If you, like me, are looking to read books, eat food and live the dolce vita uninterrupted – there is no better spot.
Stop 3: Relais Casamassima
Our third and final stop took us over the border into Umbria, and unfortunately – into a downpour. Anna, the owner of Relais Casamassima, was devastated that our one night here coincided with the rain as it meant we weren’t able to experience the lovely pool and gardens that are, by all accounts, a highlight of this gorgeous retreat.
The relais is a converted barn with an intimate eating area and lounge, and a hodgepodge of 5 spacious yet incredibly cosy rooms thanks to grand fireplaces, exposed beams and big, inviting beds. The owner’s house is extended off to one side, so they’re never far away. And gardens cascade down the valley with a hidden pool and decking areas with tables and chairs overlooking Perugia. It’s aimed at peace-seeking adults, with lots of secret leafy areas to get some space and relax.
But it was the food that truly revivified our rainy stay. Anna’s husband is the chef and his honest home-cooked Umbrian food was some of the best we had on the whole trip. The flash fried, tartare-style wild boar meatballs were mindblowing, as was the fluffy gnocchi and spinach souffle. Meals (other than breakfast) are only available by request and, as it’s just the two of them, the pair can’t always oblige, so we felt very lucky. But there’s always their homemade wine and limoncello to wind down of an evening, which tastes all the sweeter when Anna is there to entertain with with her stories. We were won over by the authenticity of the place, and when we left, we felt we were leaving a home we’d been warmly welcomed into as friends.
