By Lucy Richardson, Editor
Our Editor Lucy recently returned from western Andalucia, where she spent many happy holidays as a child. This time, she experienced it with an added dash of luxury, discovering a whole bunch of stylish places she never knew existed.
When my parents first moved to rural Andalucia, I was a grumpy teenager. I wanted the swanky beach clubs of Marbella, not a quiet farm life on the fringes of the Costa de la Luz. And I certainly didn’t want to eat fried octopus, bits of dry old ham, live shrimp or other such disgusting delicacies. But as I acclimatized, I grew quite fond of campo life, falling for the sweeping Atlantic surf beaches, the picturesque Moorish villages, the strong sense of community, and even the curious cuisine.
My parents no longer live in the region, so I returned this year on my holidays, getting to experience our little slice of western Andalucia in luxury. I always thought of this region as traditional, slightly bohemian, and somewhat lacking in style. But I was wrong. Look in the right places and you’ll uncover a much smarter side – where in-the-know Madrileños might go on their holidays. Forget overpriced, overcrowded Marbs, there’s far more charisma and charm to be found on Andalucia’s lesser-known side.
Stop 1: Hotel V, Vejer
We started in Vejer, one of my favourite places in Andalucia. Usually I daytrip here, but this time we got to stay in the town after hours. Hotel V was our first stop. It’s gorgeous; very boutique, very attractive, very i-escape. A total highlight for us. It’s set in an old, unassuming townhouse (Moorish style); everything is centred around an inner courtyard, which is beautifully dressed with climbing plants, vases of flowers and lovebirds chirping away in the corner. Breakfast is served here – a mini feast brought to you on a giant tray. The rooms are all different, each elegantly styled with decorative touches like intricate, gold patterned headboards and writing desks made from teak and rosewood. Some are a little dark due to having no windows, but others are lovely and bright and overlook the street. Down below, at the bottom of a spiral staircase, there’s a subterranean massage space in an ancient water-well. Up top, there’s a fabulous roof terrace with daybeds, a small plunge pool, an honesty bar and panoramic views over rolling fields, farmland, wind farms and distant mountains.
Vejer itself is gorgeous: an old Moorish hilltop settlement with a foodie vibe, boutique shops, and cute 19th-century windmills dotting the town. As always, we headed to El Jardin del Califa for dinner, a very popular North African restaurant serving scrummy mezze platters and juicy tagines in a pretty courtyard setting. Dessert was almond pastries and mint tea at the rooftop bar, overlooking the twinkling lights of Vejer below. It was all rather romantic. The beach isn’t far away – El Palmar is the closest, a popular surf beach with a string of cool beach shacks, bars and restaurants lining the shore. But if you’re after a more sophisticated vibe for dinner, stick to Vejer – it really is a stunner.
Stop 2: Casa La Siesta, near Vejer
Just down the road from here, among peaceful farmland at the foot of Vejer hill, is uber-stylish Casa La Siesta. It’s all very shabby-chic, with amazing rooms and gardens and rustic-luxe interiors. Furnishings incorporate recycled materials and attractive tiling. Most rooms are in the main farmhouse, but there’s also a three-bedroom casita with private gardens and a swimming pool, as well as a two-bedroom villa set away from the main house.
The landscaped gardens are gorgeous and peaceful – an ideal spot to relax in the sunshine or have a drink on a warm evening. At night, the courtyard is lit by fairy lights and looks magical. Dinner is served here, a candlelit affair that for us consisted of chorizo and baby squid salad with local goats’ cheese, followed by lamb with tzatziki and apricots, and then apple tart with Pedro Ximenez ice cream. If you want something simpler, you can drive into Vejer for tapas. But we chose to stay in, helping ourselves to beer from the honesty bar – it’s on tap and completely free of charge!
Stop 3: Hacienda San Rafael, Las Cabezas de San Juan
The vibe at Hacienda San Rafael is very similar to Casa La Siesta: grand country estate, romantic rooms, tranquil setting. The sprawling gardens are kaleidoscopic, full of colour, with three swimming pools dispersed among the greenery. Miles of wheat, sunflower and cotton fields surround the estate. It’s a remote and rugged scene.
The hacienda has been in the Reid family for decades, and it feels as though little has changed since it first opened. The main rooms are set around a lovely bougainvillea-clad courtyard. Some might find the interiors a bit grandma-ish – lots of antiques and heavy wooden furniture – but the styling is elegant and in keeping with the building. There are also three newish Casitas in their own part of the garden. These are larger and slightly more luxurious than the hacienda rooms, with separate living rooms and access to a shared swimming pool. The three-course set dinner was really impressive – some of the best food we had on our entire trip (and the wine was included!). You do pay for quality though.
Owner Anthony is a character – flamboyant, chatty, always playing the perfect host. He pours his soul into running the hacienda and goes out of his way to ensure all his guests experience the best of this undiscovered location. We were astonished by the array of activities and private guided tours on offer (including walking with our very own Guy Hunter Watts). They run all sorts of in-house events too – sherry tastings, weddings, yoga retreats. It’s the perfect setting for a get-together – I’m getting wed in Andalucia next year and seriously considered tying the knot here!
Stop 4: EME catedral hotel, Seville
It’s hard to fault Seville. I adore it. It’s lively, it has spectacularly preserved architecture, it’s always sunny, the tapas scene is outstanding, the party scene even better. If flying in or out of Seville, we always try to find time to pop into the city for lunch or a quick drink. Don’t come in August (it’s sweltering) but come in January and you’ll be out in a t-shirt drinking cervezas in the sunshine – and the crowds at the ultra-impressive Alcazar (palace) tend to be much more manageable.
At the centre of the action is EME Catedral Hotel. It’s modern, swish and the location is unbeatable. The rooftop is a stunner: front-row views of the spectacular cathedral, a pool that’s a godsend in Sevillian heat, and a hip, highly instragrammable bar that attracts a trendy crowd (we felt we needed to doll up a bit first!). Rooms are smart but simple, pared-back in design, some at the upper end of the price scale staring straight at the cathedral. There’s a tapas bar on street level – we popped here for some melt-in-the-mouth jamon (yep – I’m a convert) before heading out on a tapas crawl. There’s also a second restaurant offering more substantial meals, but in truth, you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to eating out around here. We gorged on not-so-traditional chicken gyozas at trendy Ovejas Negras, and then walked to La Carboneria, a lively, foot-stomping flamenco bar with free performances. It was once considered authentic, but probably not anymore. That said, it was still a proper fiesta, rounding off our holiday in true Andalucian style.
Interested in Andalucia? Click to see our full collection of places to stay
