Our Editorial and Marketing Assistant, Alice, recently spent 2 weeks in Vietnam, exploring the country from top to toe. Here’s how she managed to travel from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City in a short space of time, and all the tips you need to do it yourself.
In late 2024, my sister set off on a 4-month trip around the world. In classic sister fashion, I couldn’t let her have all the fun, so we decided I’d join her for a leg of her journey. I could only take 2 weeks off, but I wanted to see as much of wherever we went as possible. Finding a whole country that you can travel around within two weeks is a tall order, but Vietnam ticked all our boxes. With careful planning, we were able to travel North to South in 16 days, filling our boots with all this wonderful country has to offer: epic natural landscapes and crazy cities, delicious food and fascinating history.
If you’re tight on annual leave but want to find a far-flung destination that you can really sink your teeth into, this two-week itinerary for Vietnam is made for you; tried and tested by me.
Things to know before you go
- Cash is King: While cards are accepted in a lot of ‘bigger’ businesses, cash is still preferred at markets, local restaurants and street vendors. Arrive with some Vietnamese Dong to start you off, then you can take out more at ATMs (Tpbank and VPbank don’t charge for withdrawals).
- Grab is Queen: For getting around, the Grab app is your best friend. It works the same way as Uber, and you can pick either a car or a moped. Best to set it up before you arrive.
- Download an e-Sim: You’ll need a local sim to stay connected, and e-Sims can be installed before you arrive. You can purchase one directly from Vietnamese networks, like Viettel and Mobiphone, or use an app like Airalo (which we did) which is more straightforward and can keep you covered over several countries.
- Rules of the road don’t apply: In the big cities, like Hanoi, HCMC and Hue, the roads are overwhelming. They’re busy, loud and seemingly lawless. Signalled crossings don’t always hold back the traffic, then there are the crossings that are merely there as a suggestion. When you need to cross, my advice is to commit – move slowly but confidently, and they will move around you. If in doubt, follow a local.
When to go?
There’s no firm answer to this because the North, South and Central regions experience different seasons at the same time of year. This is to do with the country being long and thin, mountainous in the North and tropical in the Centre and South. Generally speaking, spring (March to May) promises the most evenly-spread fair weather. Humidity peaks everywhere in the hot summer months and is the bane of sightseeing, more so than a bit of rain. I went in late November/early December, which is the start of winter in the North (still plenty warm for us Brits), prime beach season in the South, and rainy season in Central. We got lucky that our days in Hue and Hoi An were largely dry, and even when we got a shower it was brief, but this region can experience heavy downpours and flooding in these months.
Hanoi
Time spent here: 3 nights
You’ll want to start in either Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, then work your way down or up respectively. We started in the hectic heart of the North and the country’s capital, Hanoi, and loved it. Some people find Hanoi a sensory overload at first, but through the chaos there’s bags of charm. The crumbling colonial buildings, vines that tumble from balconies and lantern-lit alleyways, the almond trees and rainbow of plastic stools that line every street: so effortlessly cool. Once we adjusted to the manic roads and constant cacophony of horns, and even started to see the fun side of it, we discovered a city packed with vibrant culture and proud tradition.
We stayed in the Old Quarter, a historic district made up of criss-crossing roads and narrow lanes. The streets, each one once known for a specific trade (Hang Bac for silver, Hang Thung for bamboo buckets, Hang Dao for fine silks, and so on), are now a mish mash of fashion boutiques, family restaurants, hotels and shops, but the charming old buildings remind us of the area’s heritage. This is where most people stay – it’s close to most of the major attractions and is a destination in itself for great food, shopping and energy.
La Siesta Classic Hang Thung was the perfect base for us. All the delights of the Old Quarter were in easy reach, while the welcoming staff, sumptuous bedrooms and heated pool were just what we needed after our long flights.
We started with a walk around Hoan Kiem Lake, a popular spot with locals, especially in the morning. The area was full of families in traditional dress taking photos by the water’s edge and visiting Ngoc Son Temple on the water. We also went to a show at the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, near the lake. This is one of the oldest art forms in Vietnam; 10 short stories were told by intricate handmade puppets on a watery stage, accompanied by live traditional folk music. I would highly recommend this. It’s affordable and authentic, and there are several shows a day, 7 days a week. Other cultural highlights include Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum and the pagoda on nearby West Lake. Sadly, we got turned away for not being covered enough (no knees or shoulders allowed). Rookie mistake!
We also had to tick off Train Street. Yes, it’s a massive tourist trap, so don’t go expecting anything else. However, in the evening all the buildings are lit by lanterns and fairy lights, the atmosphere is excitable, and frankly, a train passing inches from your face as it squeezes through the narrow street is quite exhilarating. Check the train schedule before going, arrive early enough to grab a chair by the tracks, order a beer and enjoy. Just don’t eat there – you will be ripped off.
Instead, join a food tour. This is one of the best things we did during our 2 weeks in Vietnam. Hanoi is a haven for street food and little eateries, many of which are family businesses run out of their front room (at one place, Grandma was watching her soap opera on the TV behind us). It cost around $25 and included 6 dishes at 6 different locations. Our guide, Andy, did a great job introducing us to regional specialities like bun cha, brothless pho and zingy green papaya salad while teaching us about Vietnamese tradition and culture. The food in Hanoi is some of the best in the country, but the choices can be daunting when you first arrive. Book a food tour for your first night – it’ll help you get your bearings and you’ll feel like a pro the rest of your trip.
Halong / Lan Ha Bay
Time spent here: 1 night
Journey: 3-4 hour drive from Hanoi to Beo Harbour, Cat Ba island (bus transfer included in cruise)
After 3 days in the bustling city, we were ready for something more serene. Cue an overnight cruise in Lan Ha Bay. Its larger neighbour, Halong Bay, gets a bad rap for being overpopulated with day-trippers and megacruises, which is why we opted for the less visited of the two. But in all honesty, I couldn’t tell them apart. Our cruise took us into Halong Bay for kayaking and swimming and, while there were several other boats around, it was no busier than Lan Ha, and nothing to the extent that the stories online had me imagining. This could be because we were there in the off-season, or a result of a recent typhoon that wrecked some boats (those in Lan Ha got away unscathed).
Either way, sometimes the ‘touristy’ places are so for a reason, and this place really is as beautiful as the hype suggests. The rugged karsts that protrude in their hundreds out of the water are jaw-dropping, and when fishermen chugged past we got a true sense of their size – their colourful boats so tiny in comparison to the limestone monoliths.
After getting settled on our boat and filling up on lunch, it was time to explore. We kayaked around the karsts, poked our heads into caves, swam in quiet coves (the water surprisingly warm for late November) and combed the powder-soft sand for interesting shells (and left them there, as all responsible travellers should).
Later that evening, we went back out for night-kayaking in search of bioluminescence. This natural phenomenon is particularly powerful in Lan Ha Bay thanks to practically zero light pollution (also ideal for stargazing if you get a clear night) and plankton-filled waters. As we ran our hands through the ink-black water the plankton sparkled like stars. Our guide told us their colour depends on the stage of their life cycle; we had silvery-white light, but it can be bright turquoise or green. Not only was it dazzling to look at, but the experience of kayaking through the karsts in the dark, not a single soul or sound around, was unforgettable. Put it on your wishlist.
The following morning we were taken to shore where we borrowed bikes and cycled through Cat Ba National Park, passing through more amazing scenery and ending up in Viet Hai village. Here, we met some local people, tried a few curious homemade tonics, and had our feet nibbled by little fish (apparently very popular here but not for the fainthearted – it is extremely tickly). Then it was time to head back for our final meal on board and return to the harbour.
We did a 2-day, 1-night cruise, which I felt was long enough to appreciate the beauty of the place, but you could also do 3 days, 2 nights; you might spend the extra day visiting the floating fishing villages or hiking, it varies from cruise to cruise. However, if you only have 2 weeks in Vietnam, I would save that extra day for elsewhere.
Ninh Binh
Time spent here: 1 night
Journey: 3-4 hour drive from Cat Ba island to Tam Coc (bus transfer included in cruise)
If I could’ve had more time anywhere, it would be Ninh Binh. Sometimes referred to as Halong Bay on land, this is where we found the most staggering natural beauty during our time in Vietnam. Those same limestone karsts that jut out of the water in the bay are found here, rising up from verdant paddy fields and farmland, the Red River snaking through them. Ninh Binh is the name of the province and one of the main cities, Hoa Lu the capital city and Tam Coc a popular town with tourists, but Ninh Binh is often used to refer to it all.
We stayed in Tam Coc, known for its simple homestays, Vietnamese and Western restaurants, and lively bars. It’s the main hub for tourists in this region due to its proximity to the main attractions, and as such feels a little less authentic than other areas, but for our short stay it was perfect. It was late afternoon when we arrived so, after we checked into our homestay, run by the sweetest lady who lived onsite with her family, we spent the evening browsing the shops along the main street. We stocked up on some souvenirs, had a tasty dinner at a vegetarian restaurant, then found a bar for a beer and a few rounds of rummy (leaving just before karaoke night kicked off).
With only one full day here, we were up early and on our bikes (courtesy of the homestay), cycling the scenic route to our first stop: Hang Mua. The name refers to the cave beneath the Lying Dragon Mountain, but the main activity here is climbing the 500 stone steps up the rockface. There are two peaks to climb, each with a pagoda or shrine on top and views to die for (and after that many steps, it might feel like you are). We were met with panoramic views of the province, across paddy fields to Hoa Lu on one side and the undulating mountain ravine on the other. Postcard Vietnam. At the base of the karst there’s a huge lotus pond that you can walk around; to see the pink flowers in full bloom, visit between late May and July.
Then we were on our bikes again and heading back through Tam Coc to Bich Dong Pagoda. This is a beautiful trio of temples, some carved into the mountainside, with cavernous shrines and intricate Buddhist architecture. It was so peaceful here, the atmosphere sacred and the setting totally mesmerising. We ate banh mi beside the lotus pond out front before hitting the road again.
If you can spare any extra days here there is so much more to see, like the Van Long nature reserve, the Bai Dinh Temple (the largest Buddhist site in Vietnam) and Hoa Lu Ancient City. For us, though, it was time for our first overnight journey.
Overnight Travel
While it may not be the most appealing idea to everyone, travelling overnight on buses or trains is the best way to maximise your time if you only have 2 weeks in Vietnam. You can travel hundreds of miles while you snooze, and wake up at your next destination without losing any sightseeing time. Personally, I thought it was pretty fun!
The buses are the cheapest option but get mixed feedback – some say they’re very comfortable, others say the driving can be a bit scary and they’re prone to overcrowding. If opting for a bus, always choose a ‘VIP’ option; these take fewer people, offering more spacious bunks and better sleeping conditions.
The prices for the train weren’t much higher, and the journey times were about the same, so it seemed a no-brainer for us. We splurged on a first-class ticket (spent a whopping £33 for the privilege – funny to think what that would get me in the UK) which meant a 4-bed cabin and ‘soft’ mattresses (slightly more cushioned than the ‘hard’). Of course, it’s a gamble as to who’ll be in with you, but that’s part of the adventure. You may even make some friends out of it.
The train from Ninh Binh to Hue took 11 hours, and I slept surprisingly well. It was all very clean and reasonably comfy. A pillow, blanket and sheet are supplied, but pack a sleep suit if you’re not keen on the idea of using the ones provided.
Use 12Go Asia to check timetables, transport options, journey times and prices. You can also use it to book tickets, which makes the whole process super simple.
Hue
Time spent here: 2 nights
Journey: 11 hour overnight train from Ninh Binh to Hue
We arrived in Hue, our first stop on the Central Coast, at about 9.30am, meaning we had a full day to explore the city. Or that was the plan, at least. Tired and still in the clothes we slept in on the train, we settled into a coffee shop and waited for check-in, desperate for a relaxing afternoon, and the serene Ancient Hue Garden Houses answered our prayers. Elegant rooms lie amongst gardens and koi ponds, which the attentive staff quietly drift around. I’m guilty of trying to cram my days with activities when I’m somewhere new, and I felt the pressure to use every precious second in Vietnam wisely. But we needed to pause, and there was a free foot massage waiting for us at the spa, so it would be silly to leave so soon.
Feeling rested, we went out for the evening, heading to the Western Quarter. This part of town is pedestrianised at the weekends, the streets lined with bars, restaurants, souvenir shops, cool clothing stores and art studios. There are some really good restaurants around here, but there are also some tourist traps, and the music blaring out of the neon-lit bars was slightly jarring – there was an essence of Magaluf that we weren’t a fan of. Having said that, there was a good mix of tourists and locals out for a fun Friday night and we picked up some beautiful artwork from a painter’s studio, which I doubt we’d manage along any European strips.
We made good use of the hotel’s bottomless a la carte breakfast before heading out to Hue’s main attraction: the Imperial City. For centuries, Hue was Vietnam’s capital and the Emperors lived in a citadel beside the Perfume River. This is an absolute must-see. The oriental buildings within the fortified walls are astounding, colourful, intricate and steeped in history. Make sure you go with a guide – you can go it alone and admire the ancient architecture, but you’ll miss out on the fascinating stories of the Emperors who called it home. We found our guide on Get Your Guide and she was fab, but most accommodations will be able to arrange a tour for you.
We spent a morning there, leaving the citadel in time for lunch. Hue is a really foodie city – it was our Hanoi food tour guide’s favourite place in Vietnam for a culinary trip – and there are lots of regional specialties to try. Our guide recommended we try Lac Thien, a short walk from the city walls, for authentic Hue cuisine. It turned out to be one of the best meals of our trip. Firstly, the women who work there are firecrackers, full of energy and playful attitude. That alone made it a memorable lunch. But the quality of the food was also top drawer; we shared a veggie version of Bun Bo Hue (a noodle soup similar to pho traditionally served with beef), build-your-own tofu spring rolls and locally caught river fish; everything was packed with flavour and so fresh.
We didn’t get to see as much of Hue as we would’ve liked, due to our lazy first day, but we wouldn’t have traded any of our time lounging at Ancient Hue Garden Houses. Still, I recommend planning ahead, and if you can spare more than two days here, it’ll be worth it. This is a big city with lots to explore, from the temples, tombs and beaches on the outskirts to the fantastic food scene in local neighbourhoods.
The Hai Van Pass
Driving direct between Hue and Hoi An takes just under 3 hours, so if you’re extra tight on time that’s the way to go. However, the scenic route between the two cities reveals quiet corners of Vietnam that you’d otherwise miss, and you get killer coastal views along the Hai Van Pass, a road that hugs the mountain on one side and opens out to the ocean on the other.
The best way to travel this is by motorbike. You can hire your own if you’re an experienced biker, or hop on the back with an Easy Rider. This is a great way to explore as you go. The riders make at least 5 stops, which for us included a covered market, a swim in a waterfall, lunch by the beach, and Chua Linh Ung, an incredible Buddhist complex in Da Nang. Our riders also went out of their way to find us the monkeys that live in the surrounding forests. Along the way, we rode through roadside hamlets, fishing villages and bustling towns. And, of course, made lots of stops to admire the views once we got on the pass.
It takes the full day so if you’re tight on time or would prefer to use that day somewhere else, it can be skipped. It’s also relatively expensive, coming in at around £50 per person (which includes some snacks and entry fees but not lunch), but totally worth it in our opinion as it turned an essential journey into a day to remember.
Hoi An
Time spent here: 3 nights
Journey: 8 hour motorbike ride from Hue to Hoi An via the Hai Van Pass
Heading south along the coast, just below Da Nang, is the historic port town of Hoi An. With it’s sunshine-yellow Old Town, trendy beachfront and lantern-filled streets, Hoi An has become one of the most popular destinations in Vietnam over the years.
We were really excited to get to Hoi An after hearing so much buzz about it, and devoted the longest stint of our trip (3 nights). We stayed by the beach at Dechiu Hotel, just a 15-minute taxi ride from the Old Town. We adored the friendly team we saw every day, the contemporary design that flowed throughout, and the calm energy that washed over us as soon as we arrived, never faltering for a moment. The beach being metres away was just a bonus. It was my favourite place we stayed and I would go back to Hoi An just to stay there again. Seriously.
As it was rainy season (though we got away with one short downpour) the area was semi-deserted but this at least meant it was a peaceful alternative to the bustling centre. During the warmer months the bars and restaurants that line the beachfront are full of life, popular with backpackers and those seeking the barefoot idyll. An Bang and Cua Dai beaches are known for their pale sand and tree-lined shores. Unfortunately, it wasn’t tanning weather during our stay, but it was still a joy having the ocean on our doorstep.
Hoi An is the home of tailoring, so our first port of call was getting new clothes made. There are countless tailor shops and, while a few specialise in linen, silk and suits, most can tailor almost any design within 24 hours (depending on how much you order, of course). The prices are so affordable (incomparable to getting clothes custom-made in Europe) and the quality is fantastic; I got an occasion dress made for less than £40, my sister a linen dress and shirt for about the same.
After putting in our order, we browsed the Old Town’s narrow streets, lined with shops selling souvenirs, clothes, ceramics and leather bags. If I’m totally honest, I was slightly disappointed by how touristy it felt here. A lot of the shops sold the same stock and the staff were pushier here than in any other place we’d been to. However, it is very pretty and I can imagine that first thing in the morning, before the hordes arrive, it must be a glimpse at Vietnam-of-old. The architecture is a beguiling mix of Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese influences, from temples and pagodas to tube houses and ornate bridges over the canal.
When we needed a break from the crowds, we’d dip into the peaceful temples or take a coffee break at one of the many cafes. We also made our own silk lanterns in a lantern shop, tucked down a quiet lane; though ours aren’t quite perfect, it was a fun 30 minutes learning a traditional craft and a unique souvenir to take home with us. One night we booked a spot on a boat to release a paper lantern on the river; this happens every evening and is thought to bring good luck. It’s a lovely thing to be a part of and cool to watch from the river’s edge, but be aware there will be a lot of other people doing it with you – the river is packed with boats.
We left with mixed feelings about Hoi An. There were elements we loved, but overall we felt it was more focused on tourists than anywhere else we’d been. Many people say Hoi An is their favourite, so go with an open mind… and don’t just stick to the Old Town.
Phu Quoc
Time spent here: 2 nights
Journey: 45min taxi from Hoi An to Da Nang Airport, 1hr45min flight to Phu Quoc
Then it was time to head to the airport, as we needed to fly south to our next destination. Phu Quoc is an island off the south west coast of Vietnam (actually closer to mainland Cambodia), known for white-sand beaches, swaying palms, calm seas and bluest of blue skies. And we were ready to escape the overcast conditions of the Central Coast for some much-needed sun.
We found a direct flight from Da Nang to Phu Quoc, which saved us making a connection in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). These aren’t as regular as flights via Saigon so check ahead to see if any line up with your dates. Connecting would be fine but it takes up precious time and can be a faff with luggage. If you can’t get a direct flight, another option would be to do Saigon first, then finish your trip in Phu Quoc. Some international airlines even fly from the island, so you may not have to return to the mainland to get home. If you don’t fancy flying at all but still want some southern sun, you could get the train from Hoi An to ever-popular (but expensive) Nha Trang or under-the-radar Quy Nhon. However, this will take up more time.
If you’re coming to Phu Quoc, you’re coming to relax. There’s not a whole lot else to do. Phu Quoc town is fairly big and has a good amount going on – lots of restaurants, shops and the like, but outside of that, the main activity here is finding a beautiful patch of sand and staying put for hours. And for the first time in almost 2 weeks, that is exactly what we did. With the exception of a few refreshing dips and an hour or so of snorkelling, we just lazed under the sun, dozing, reading and repeating. And it was bliss.
We stayed at Green Bay Phu Quoc Resort, in the wild north of the island. With two restaurants, two pools, a private beach, a watersport kit and bikes to borrow, it was easy to hole up here for a couple of days without getting bored. The villa rooms are discreetly tucked into the trees that grow right up to the shore, which gives the place a secluded, unspoilt feel – not something many resorts can claim.
If you’re tied to 2 weeks in Vietnam and aren’t particularly bothered about a couple days of beach-bumming, this can be skipped and those days could be spent elsewhere. However, this island is home to some of the country’s most picture-perfect coastline and exotic wildlife, which would be a shame to miss. If you’ve got a little more time to play with, I would recommend at least 3 days here; that way you can explore the National Park in the north, head south to Caribbean-like bays, get your urban fix in Phu Quoc town, and still have plenty of hours for doing sweet nothing.
Ho Chi Minh City
Time spent here: 2 nights
Journey: 1 hour flight from Phu Quoc
We finished our 2 weeks in Vietnam in Ho Chi Minh City, also known as Saigon. Vietnam’s largest city is a modern metropolis, home to skyscrapers that glint in the sun, wide roads that constantly hum with traffic, and a cosmopolitan population of Vietnamese urbanites and affluent ex-pats.
To embrace the fashionable way of life in District 1, we stayed at the luxurious La Siesta Premium Saigon. We knew the service would be stellar, just like it was at its sister in Hanoi, but the glitzy style was definitely upped a few notches here (grand piano in the foyer, that sort of place). It had the same gigantic beds that we couldn’t wait to slip into, a refreshing rooftop pool to combat the city’s humidity, and a cocktail bar in the clouds where we watched our last Vietnamese sunset.
Despite the evident investment in ‘newness’ here, HCMC is the top destination for history buffs, particularly anyone interested in the Vietnam War and reign of communism. We spent a morning at The War Remnants Museum and found it fascinating; the exhibitions are photo-led which makes them easier to digest, exploring topics like the role of journalism, the effects of Agent Orange, international protests and more. There are also real Vietnamese and American tanks and planes outside, as well as replicas of POW camps. It’s harrowing stuff but eye-opening to see it through a Vietnamese lens, especially as people here are still living with the consequences of chemical warfare today.
We spent another morning at the Cu Chi Tunnels – do not miss this! A few hours north of the city (it requires an early start), you’ll find this vast network of underground tunnels used by the Viet Cong during the war. Soldiers would hide, fight, store weapons and even hold meetings down there. The tunnels are barely wider than the width of a small man, pitch black and laden with booby traps. They’re off limits to visitors for obvious reasons, but we were able to go through one, which has been stabilised and – unbelievably – made bigger (for scale, I’m 5’3 and had to crouch the whole time). We saw mock ups of booby traps and learned about their guerrilla tactics, all whilst the sound of gunfire rung through the forest from the shooting range onsite – random, but it really added to the immersive experience.
More serene highlights from our days in HCMC included the Notre Dame, a grand cathedral inspired by its Parisian namesake and built by the French during their occupation, the beautiful buttercup-yellow Central Post Office, and browsing the stores and stalls on Book Street (all in skipping distance of each other). There are a few parks and leafy neighbourhoods, and lots of cafes with tables that spill onto the street. It all felt quite European, actually. We also spent an evening getting lost in the labyrinth of floor-to-ceiling stalls in Ben Thanh Market, where you can pick up everything from incense and fake Adidas to fresh dried mango and fragrant street food.
Saigon is a fun, modern city, where rooftop bars are the typical evening hangout and the food scene is cutting edge. District 1, where we were based, felt more refined and international than Hanoi. Personally, I preferred the distinctively Vietnamese, down-to-earth (albeit chaotic) nature of Hanoi to the slick urban sprawl of HCMC, but they’re so different it doesn’t feel fair to compare. You’ll simply have to see both!
Get in touch with our booking experts if you’d like a hand planning your trip to Vietnam, or check out our Tailormade Trips.